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 Engine mounting advice
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 16 May 2016 :  14:22:05  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi All,

Looking for a bit of advice please on how to mount my replacement engine. Just brought a new (to me) Evinrude 15. My old Honda had a bracket that was part of the engine frame that fitted straight to the steering controls. The Evinrude though seems to have an arm. I am guessing that I don't have to use the arm, but if I connect the steering rod directly to the engine, I can't then tilt the engine up.

Any ideas on best way to connect this up that will allow a wide turn range, and also to lift the engine? (We get a lot of weed on our river).

The picture below shows the original steering and the new engine offered up but not connected.

Any help much appreciated.



fitvit

United Kingdom
94 Posts

Posted - 16 May 2016 :  21:34:55  Show Profile Send fitvit a Private Message  Reply with Quote
i can't help with this one, but I'm sure someone can. I am however wondering what happened to your old Honda engine? Did you sell it?

jojo
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 16 May 2016 :  22:05:54  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The steering cable should be able to go through the tilt pivot bolt of the evinrude using the thread at the end to atach it, the arm then connects to the cable the other side so the whole thing tilts around the steering cable.
You may need a different fitting kit for the end of your cable to do it.



NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  03:36:06  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
It looks as though that engine was set up for the steering cable connection to starboard (probably off a speedboat/runabout) but Normans are set up like most small cruisers with cable and helm to port.

What you have to do is remove the lock-nut on one side of the engine tilot tube and the cap nut from the other and swop them. Then use the lock-nut to pull the threaded tilt tube inner through the tilt tube outer - you might need to pump some grease in to facilitate this - until the free thread is to port side.

Then disconnect all the pivot clamp and outer tube from your steering cable until you are left with the inner and the outer with the large cap nut only. You'll need a new "witches hat" to go over the cable, and also need to cut a new hole in the side of the motor well centred on the outboard tilt tube. Pass the cable through the new witches hat and the new hole, slide it through the tilt tube and screw the cable cap nut tightly onto the tilt tube.

Then the cranked bar you already have connects to the motor steering bracket on the straight end and the steering cable on the bent end, you'll probably need a swivel connection kit to do this. This gives a positive steering allowing the motor to tilt easily.

Hopefully these random pics will make it clearer.






Finally living the dream!

Edited by - cliveshep on 17 May 2016 03:54:42
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  07:31:56  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Great stuff, thank you. That's exactly what I needed!

It appears I have a lot of work to do to get it connected. I think maybe starting with a longer steering cable.

The hole the steering ram comes out of is no where near the tilt tube of the engine.. do I need to make a new hole closer?
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  07:58:59  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is my current helm system.. would this be a Teleflex Morse system?

Current cable is about 15ft, but there's no more slack in it to move it to the engine tilt tube. So it looks like I need to make a new hole closer to the tilt tube and maybe a 16ft cable?

Also, the bar that comes from the engine bends to the left, rather than the right.. do I need a new one of these too as it doesn't seem to be reversible? If I connect it the other way round, it's too high as there is also a bend in the other axis.

Thanks


Edited by - Mfuller on 17 May 2016 08:27:56
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  08:18:07  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Oh and fitvit.. We've taken it off and will be selling it soon.. as soon as I fit this damn evinrude :)
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  08:34:33  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is the bar... the bend to the left, with the bend to drop it down, means it is not reversable.. I can't seem to find other hand ones anywhere :(

I wonder if it's worth getting a longer cable and run it from the other side?


Edited by - Mfuller on 17 May 2016 08:38:34
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  09:06:00  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
You could just connect direct for the time being and undo the steering cable when you need to tilt, that's how I set my mariner up and never got around to changing it, that said I was mostly in clear deep water.



NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  09:12:29  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Yeah, unfortunately our river is very seldom used and is heavily weeded in areas. I can guarantee at least once a trip I'll need to clear it :(
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  10:10:58  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
That was my reference to a new "witches hat" - the black plastic grommet to go over the steering tube/cable and telling you to cut a new hole. You'll need a bit of plastic or similar if the old and new holes overlap so you can block the old one.

Take that link bar to an engineering shop and tell them you want the opposite hand and can they cut it at the slow bend and weld back together with the threaded end pointing up?

Then take out the swivel bolt and refit the other way up.

Or make your own which is what I have done before or if you don't have the kit for that get another firm to make you one opposite hand.

Me - Id get that one cut and welded opposite hand and reverse the bolt - job done and a lot cheaper than a new Teleflex cable apart from the issues with putting a "U" bend in a cable which is to be avoided at all costs!



Finally living the dream!

Edited by - cliveshep on 17 May 2016 10:19:36
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  10:28:04  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Trouble is, the current cable is not long enough to reach the tilt tube, so i'll need a new one anyway. With that in mind, would it be easier to change sides? I was planning to run the cable under the deck so as not to make a U bend.. think that's doable.

Thanks for all your help, very much appreciated.

Edited by - Mfuller on 17 May 2016 10:30:09
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  11:11:11  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I guess that is doable yes, you'd need a cable maybe 1.5m longer perhaps?

Yours is a lightweight cable I think - but better take the old one with you when you go to make sure.


Finally living the dream!
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  12:19:01  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks Clive,

My current cable has "By Teleflex USA - 40Kw MAX"

I believe that confirms it's a lightweight?
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 17 May 2016 :  13:06:48  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I believe it does yes.



Finally living the dream!
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Mfuller

121 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2016 :  19:08:10  Show Profile Send Mfuller a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Oh dear God I am at my wits end with this damn engine.

Having spent a lot of money on a new cable, I have hit upon another issue.

It appears that there is not enough space in the engine well to turn the engine when using the pivot tube.

When turning to starboard, the bar hits the port side of the engine well and only turning the engine about 5 degrees. I am guessing I will need to dig a large hole in the port wall but not sure how much further the pole will extend.


Then when turning to port, it only turns about 40 degrees before the pole is fully retracted into the pivot tube. Any thoughts? My previous engine turned much further than this, but maybe this is normal?
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