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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2016 :  18:51:25  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Now you see it...

Now you see a bit of it...

Gone!

Now don't they look pretty, repitched to 18x17 and balanced
and generally sorted.

The front mount needed some reshaping as it's been built up in front I assume to allow for a bit of rubbing on the bottom when drying out, should be out of the water at speed anyway, looks better than the 10mm step that was left when I took the plates off.




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Deano

United Kingdom
1843 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2016 :  19:17:20  Show Profile  Visit Deano's Homepage Send Deano a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Good job... awaiting the results...... when do you think you will be next out?

Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2016 :  20:14:44  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Be another couple of weeks before it gets it's bum wet again.



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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 17 Oct 2016 :  09:30:07  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Some more piccies with new anodes fitted and antifouled, got to finish replacing the wood on the bathing platform with wood plastic composite (maintenence free for lazy gits like me)and finish replacing the seacocks and scoops as the old ones were getting a bit corroded, next weekend hopefully and get it floating again the weekend after.





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Deano

United Kingdom
1843 Posts

Posted - 17 Oct 2016 :  20:25:23  Show Profile  Visit Deano's Homepage Send Deano a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Looking good.... those props look the business!!!!

Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 22 Oct 2016 :  19:04:54  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Another glitch, need to replace a cutlass bearing, not sure how I missed it as rattled the shafts around and not noticed till one of the guys from the marina pointed it out today, do they shrink when they dry or something?
So next job is to find out what the outer diameter is and get a bearing and make a puller, might just do both sides while I'm at it.
Have glassed over the insides of the repairs now just to do full belt and braces job, more dust, more epoxy all over me, such fun.....


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Edited by - df on 22 Oct 2016 19:07:01
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 23 Oct 2016 :  02:18:40  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Naaaa Dave, stainless steel shrinks in dry air so your shafts have shrunk. You need to build a bund around the props and fill it with water, trust me hahaha, I wouldn't dream of misleading you!

On a (slightly) more serious note - are you dropping the shafts out to change them? Much easier to do the job that way. Tip - borrow an impact screwdriver to remove the grub-screws.

Guessing you might not have done this before there are some useful tips on this page, scroll down past all the Cutlass/Cutless garbage!

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

Hw waffles on about scoring the inside of the P-bracket as if you repeatedly change bearings his way you'll weaken it! That is just the marine equivalent of being PC - it has no effect on the bracket if it is scored, and you'll be unlikely to ever change the bearing again for years.

The joy of this method is you don't need a different puller every time you do the job, not that you would unless you run a hire fleet.

Just get a decent hacksaw, some spare blades, some WD40 or Plus-Gas, an impact driver and correct end, couple of washers and two M16 nuts and a length of M16 studding and a bit of grease.

You're only other concern to keep you awake nights for the coming week is whether or not the boat is chocked high enough to get the shafts out. It is not of course so you'll need a couple of yard crane lifts to lift the stern once you've undone the inside couplings to quickly slide hte shafts out and later to stuff them back in. Don't forget to loosen right off the stuffing boxes inside before re-fitting.

Some shaft couplings do need a large chain wrench to hold them and a C-spanner with a long tube to undo the c-nut - you'll need to look at yours to see what is required to free them off. If the C-nut type that squeezes "fingers" around the shaft check the required torque settings for refitting - it is very high - and you don't want the shafts and props sliding back and hitting the rudders when you go astern!

Seriously Dave - do your homework first!



Finally living the dream!
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 23 Oct 2016 :  12:38:09  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I might just get the yard to do it yet as I would like it back in the water next weekend but if I do myself I don't plan on removing the shafts, I have a very convenient piece of 1 1/2" ID aly tube in my shed to make a drift from (run a cutting disk down the sides) and some 10mm steel plate at work to make a slotted puller from, a length of theaded rod is easy enough to get hold of, and my manager is on holiday next week so can get away with a good deal of homework.....
Just need to find out if the OD is 2" or 2 3/8" on the bearing.


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Deano

United Kingdom
1843 Posts

Posted - 23 Oct 2016 :  23:00:10  Show Profile  Visit Deano's Homepage Send Deano a Private Message  Reply with Quote


I modified an old Triumph spring compressor to get min out on Silver Gem. The 'blue' bit is a length of scaffold pole sliced in two.


Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/
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