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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
 Posted - 28 Jan 2012 : 20:51:11
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Dave
Keep Up the good work , However only one comment so far 
I think I would have replaced the whole left hand Bulkhead - Unlike Ours on our 22 yours appears to be a single panel to the left of the doors.
Just a personal thing ! Keep the piccies coming
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 09 Feb 2012 : 18:46:10
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Thanks Adi, trying to post as much as possible and feedback is always helpful.
I would have preferred to replace the entire bulkhead but it is well fitted to the fibreglass and don't think my experience covers fixing it all in. Also working on a budget.
One benefit is that it creates boxed section to put all the electrics for a tidy finish.
I have now got the new floor in, think its quite an improvement from the old one. There is a separate hatch section towards stern for removing and checking the hull.
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www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
Edited by - dave.c on 09 Feb 2012 19:00:52 |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 12 Feb 2012 : 16:45:14
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Busy day today. Now the cold isn't too bad thought i'd spend the morning working on the boat. Three big jobs ticked off the list.
Started by putting a run of 3 strand rope around the fender strip. There was originally the white plastic insert but this had came loose and split, it was also pretty grubby. I used 14mm rope with a length of 21m approx and used a mini blowtorch to seal the ends.
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Second job finished today was installing one of the new benches. I was a little concerned with it fitting as I built it in the workshop. Happy it fits just right, just got the other side to worry about now.
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I made these benches a couple of inches higher than the original. This was because when sitting, it was difficult to see the surroundings over the sides so now we are a little higher and is much more comfortable.
I also managed to clean the waterline. I don't think the boat has been out the water for a few years and the lime-scale build up was bad. Tried cloth cleaning with oxalic acid, then with waterline cleaner. Only way to get it all off was with the waterline cleaner and wirewool mixed with lots of elbow grease. Going to do a general clean with oxalic acid and a good polish.
Only 4 weekends left before going back in the water but feel like I am making good progress. Next big job is anti fouling.
The jobs never end 
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 12 Feb 2012 : 17:53:23
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That woodwork looks absolutely lovely Dave, can you do mine?
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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joe
United Kingdom
332 Posts |
Posted - 12 Feb 2012 : 18:11:00
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| If you are using desmo legs for your seating put a steel washer in the cup as this will stop the leg cutting/wearing thro' the alloy cup |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 18 Feb 2012 : 17:51:42
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Weekend update - 4 weeks before going back to in the water
Hopefully all the main woodwork is done and dusted (down). All the new benches and engine compartment are finished. Still need to put the cubbyhole doors on but in no rush to do that. Pictures should show the progress.
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I am very happy with the outcome and been a first time ever doing woodwork, have even impressed the wife.
I managed to save all the original fittings and with a good rubdown with Peek it has made such a difference. Still need to put the speakers and other little bits on, but that just detail.
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Got some re-wireing to complete and a whole list of things to do on the hull, anti fouling and a good clean etc.
I have found this product very useful for all sorts of fixes, thought i'd share http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/Product.aspx?id=165645033
df, with the time this had taken me with this wood you will be waiting a while 
More updates tomorrow
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
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tigtog
United Kingdom
421 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2012 : 01:02:33
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| looks real good that |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2012 : 17:07:45
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Thanks tigtog, once all done I hope to put some before and after photos on.
Nothing to exciting today. Mostly did work on the hull, washing down then a once over with rubbing compound before a good polish. Got all the black marks out with some soft wire wool. Problem is you start with the big ones, then notice all the smaller ones and so on. Ended up nearly scrubbing the entire hull with little bits of wire wool. Took ages but well worth it.
Managed to wet sand the anti fouled areas ready for painting next weekend. Looks like it's going to get warmer so good conditions.
Last job was a trip to the tip with all the old boat. More than I thought.
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
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james12345
United Kingdom
25 Posts |
Posted - 20 Feb 2012 : 13:53:36
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Hi Dave - I must say I am really, really impressed with the look of the wood work you have there. My bulkhead seems to be in a very similar condition (or maybe slightly worse, but not too much) to how yours looked a few short weeks ago.
Can I ask what sort of wood you are using to replace the section in the bulkhead? Is it a marine (WBP) ply, or something else? Also, with the original bulkhead, how did you prep it, and also what varnish are you using to get that finish? It looks superb, especially considering the before / after difference!
I've been considering painting my bulkheads, but seeing that, I'm more inclined to follow what you have done.
To give you an idea, this is what mine are like at the moment:
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 20 Feb 2012 : 20:48:17
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Thanks James, that picture looks like a familiar site. First thing I can suggest is don't paint the bulkhead, it is well worth keeping the wood look.
This is the first time I have ever undertaken any such project (or wood work for that matter) so was a bit of a learning curve. I didn't trust myself to do too much and maybe some materials I chose wern't 100% intended for boats, but think it will be good. Most acquired from Wickes or B&Q as I can't afford chandlery prices.
Ok, disclaimer over, this is how I did it.
BULKHEAD
I found the original bulkhead was in a good condition (no rot), just a bit shabby on the outside and the holes in the wrong place. The wood was Exterior ply about 2cm thick and replacing the whole thing was financially out the question. I used a powered hand sander to take it as close to the bare wood as possible (including the side panels) then cleaned with white spirit.
To get the colour back I used 2 coats of Wickes professional warm oak wood stain http://www.wickes.co.uk/red-plastic-wallplugs/invt/170554/. Once left for a week I then varnished with Ronseal yacht varnish (yep, is what it said on the tin). http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint/woodcare/exterior_woodcare/-specificproducttype-exterior_varnish/Ronseal-Yacht-Varnish-Clear-2-5L-11348554
1: varnish with 10% white spirit mix
2: lightly sand down
3: revarnish
4: sand again and clean
5: varnish again (do steps 4&5 again if you have time)
HELM
I used exterior ply from wickes to make the new helm unit, again lots of sanding, cutting and painting. This is attached from the back for a seamless seal.
If I were to do it again I would have liked to replace the entire bulkhead for new but equally please with the outcome.
BENCHES and FLOOR
I wanted to raise the seats a couple of inches so when cruising with friends and family they get a good view. The wood I used was Canadian Redwood, again from Wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/planed-redwood-pse/invt/166371/ and treated with the same process as above.
I was lucky enough to be able to make these at home (in the loft) so measuring correctly was so important. I found nothing is straight in an old boat. I did an extra coat of varnish on the floor.
One last touch which has made a big difference that doesn't show in the photos is to replace any screws with shiny ones and screw cup washers. http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/156559
That's about as much I can say about the process. I think the most important bit of advice is don't rush anything, expect there to be problems and fixes, but that sounds like boating as a whole.
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
Edited by - dave.c on 20 Feb 2012 20:55:33 |
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Stan the Man
United Kingdom
134 Posts |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 07:08:46
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dave.c
A really lovely job - you have every right to feel very proud. Keep posting so that we can all feel inspired.
Perhaps you missed you true vocation as a boat restorer? |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 25 Feb 2012 : 18:52:31
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Sun was out and it was nice and warm, so what better than to get some bits done on the boat.
Biggest job done was anti fouling the hull. I used Hempel Cruising Performer and got a good deal from Force4. http://www.force4.co.uk/2913/Hempel-Blakes-Paints-Cruising-Performer-2-5L-Antifoul.html Glad that's all done. Will do a second coat tomorrow.
Also fitted the new stereo and battery compartment so need to wire it all up tomorrow. Fitted the Norman badges supplied from Adi. It's the small details like that I think really make the boat look great.
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I ordered some new vinyl names and striping tape so hope I can get them on before she's back in the water as it may be difficult. Any tips on applying these would be appreciated.
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 25 Feb 2012 : 21:25:18
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The best trick to applying large vinyl names is to apply it to a wet surface ... sounds crazy I know.
Use a plant sprayer (or empty Windoleen bottle if you are as tight as me) to spray water, with the tinniest drop of washing up liquid or meths??? in it. Onto the surface..... only a light misting, don't let it bead and run.
Lift up the parts of the vinyl by sticking masking tape over it, then lift it off the white backing using the masking tape. This will keep the letters correctly spaced. Stick the whole lot onto the damp surface. If on the bow and you have a long name, consider correcting the bend so the name appears straight and not curved due to the shape of the boat.
The vinyl will then slide into position. When happy, force out the water using a hard squeegee, a window scraper or even a credit card will do.
The vinyl will now be fixed in place. Carefully remove the masking tape. Any remaining moisture will disappear in the next few days.
Don't use this for pin striping, just anchor the end and use tension to keep it straight. If working on a curved surface, use a chinograph pencil (or a dry wipe board marker but they don't always come off older GRP cleanly) to make small marks to use as a guide.
Your friendly fireman will have lots of chinograph pencils!!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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dave.c
United Kingdom
94 Posts |
Posted - 25 Feb 2012 : 21:42:02
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Thanks Deano, great advice, I,ll post the results when done. Funnily enough I have a couple of chinograph pencils from audio reel to reel tape splicing. Never thought I would need them again.
www.normanboats.co.uk/Daves%20Quo%20Vadis%202.htm |
Edited by - dave.c on 25 Feb 2012 22:52:03 |
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MrW
14 Posts |
Posted - 26 Feb 2012 : 09:59:40
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Hi Dave. Nice work so far. Just a couple of Q's so I can get some ideas. Where are you fitting the stereo & speakers as I am doing the same myself but working out where best to put them. I want it inside so when I am using it overnight it can all be controlled from inside. Also, are you running it off a different battery from the engine one & what cable are you using (amps? size???)
Cheers |
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Norman 20 restoration
