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mumsie53
United Kingdom
68 Posts |
 Posted - 13 Sep 2011 : 22:03:15
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I quite fancy the weathershield idea, though if you were to use a colour other than white,black or green @£29 for 2.5ltr,it gets quite pricey at £16 for 750mls, nearly as much as International toplac.
Asking at our local B&Q though, the larger stores (Chester Sealand rd for example) do weathershield gloss in their paint mixing machine in 1,2.5 and 5 ltr cans...now that was very interesting I thought
Pam
"growing old is compulsory, growing up however, is purely optional" |
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gowzel
19 Posts |
Posted - 13 Sep 2011 : 22:54:20
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Quote "Has anybody painted their boat with ordinary household paints rather than the marine variety. I've stripped part of my boat back to the gelcoat because of flaking paint." /Quote
Before you paint it and consider a light sanding and new top coat every year ask yourself why you have sanded it down now, the flaking paint looks a mess. It will also look a mess next year and the year after will look even worse if you change the top coat colour.
Why not spend the time and money on stripping the rest of the paint, using gel coat filler to cover any bad marks and treat the hull to a thorough polish. Admittedly it is a lot harder work but will look better in the long run and will definately look better than chipped and flakey paint.
Just my opinion after spending two months removing 9 layers of paint from a 18.5 foot hull. |
Edited by - gowzel on 13 Sep 2011 22:55:33 |
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georgeblackwood
31 Posts |
Posted - 13 Sep 2011 : 23:42:31
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@mumsie53 Thanks for the info on the pricing of the weathershield. There is a good chance that I might be able to get my hands on some free exterior paint from my dad/father in laws garage. I'll more than likely be sticking with white anyway, (Don't hold me to that though, I reserve the right to change my mind!)
@gowzel Unfortunately I'm not blessed with your patience, well done on stripping back the nine layers of paint on your boat. I don't know what techniques you were using for sanding back your hull but I ran out of patience with the belt sander and ended up resorting to the angle grinder with the flap disk, which wrecked the gel coat on the gunwale section.
A lot of the paint on the gunwale section was very well stuck down and not flaking at all,it was mainly where the levels changed at the bow section that the flaking was particularly bad.
After the mess that I've made of the gunwale section I've decided that I'm going to be a lot more cautious with the sander. What your doing is definitely the right way to go for the long term job. Unfortunately one of the previous owners cut out the roof hatch on my boat and I've had to close in the roof with a fibreglass patch topped with a layer of body filler to stiffen up the roof again so a lovely gel coat finish is simply not an option.
P.s. I'm hoping that I won't have to re-coat the paint every year, but I guess only time will tell. The boat is going to spend most of it's life under cover in the garage on the trailer so with a bit of luck I'll get away with the household exterior paint, but I guess only time will tell.
Thanks for the input |
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ken cattell
United Kingdom
192 Posts |
Posted - 14 Sep 2011 : 13:41:48
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Having seen earlier in the year the good results of Lordjohns efforts on Goldfish using Jonhsons Exterior gloss I went to the local Leyland paint centre (the major stockist open to trade and public alike) and talked over the idea with the manageress. I found out she has loads of boaters coming in for the paint with repeat bussiness every 3 years on average. The below waterline paint (antifoul substitute for freshwater craft) mentioned of in an ealier post was Bitumin paint not roof Bitumin. This again came as no surprise to the Leyland paint centre manager. And will be the route I will be going down for everything below the rubbing strake.
Ken |
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georgeblackwood
31 Posts |
Posted - 14 Sep 2011 : 20:38:50
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@ken cattell
Thanks for the information about the life span of the exterior gloss; that's good to know, so it looks like I should get three years out of this job if I do the prep work right. Also thanks for the clarification that it is bitumen paint that I require for the antifoul substitute.
Thankyou |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 15 Sep 2011 : 09:35:53
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I'm not convinced that a bitumin based product is realy a great way to go on a fiberglass boat. I just see a potential nightmare if/when you or the next owner decides to try to remove it.
I would suggest to you that it may seriously devalue your boat.
I certainally would not consider purchasing a fiberglass boat that had been painted with this kind of product.
If it was still 1850 then great, go ahead with the tar. It was the only technology available then, but times have changed, you can't even smoke in a cinema now!
Buy some cheap antifoul (Flag from Screwfix??) or from a boat jumble. It will work a million times better than bitumen and if you are on fresh water you may get 3-6 years use out of one application. The whole expensive routine of repainting with gallons of antifoul every spring is a coastal thing where fouling is serious and fast. All you will get on freshwater is some green slime and in bad areas some hair weed, but no antifoul on the plannet will prevent that. Thankfully it will jetwash off in minutes.
My old boat has not has a drop of antifoul in the last 5 years and only 2 jetwashes in that time. Although it's bottom does not look the best, there is no fouling other than the green slime on the water line. She is stored afloat.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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georgeblackwood
31 Posts |
Posted - 15 Sep 2011 : 13:17:56
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Thanks for the reply deano. I'm not actually planning any kind of antifoul on my boat at the minute, as it is going to be stored out of the water on the trailer in my garage. I see what you mean about the bitumen paint, it would be an absolute "Oh my word" to get it off,i'd say you'd nearly have to resort to soda blasting. I guess you never really know what is lurking beneath the bitumen paint; a potential new owner would perhaps think it was put on to cover up some hull damage etc.
Thanks for the advice |
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Knighty
United Kingdom
654 Posts |
Posted - 15 Sep 2011 : 13:23:05
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| Just a thought but how do you come of enviromentally putting bitumen products below the water surface? |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 15 Sep 2011 : 17:37:00
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quote:
Originally posted by Knighty
Just a thought but how do you come of enviromentally putting bitumen products below the water surface?
Badly I would think. Narrowboats use 'Black' whatever that is. Traditionally a tar derived product, but I imagine it is now more eco friendly.
Black Tar Varnish?????
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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grabman
United Kingdom
9 Posts |
Posted - 25 Sep 2011 : 20:22:52
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| bit of a late reply but i work away,as for tmac,i,ve used it and always got good results,i live in hull where its made, most the boaters near me use it too.if your unsure about paint compatabillity, the old trick is to do a small patch and see if you get a bad reaction |
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Topic |
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Beware wet paint! (non slip also)
