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stumpy
United Kingdom
33 Posts |
 Posted - 15 Jun 2011 : 10:05:40
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Hi all, can anybody tell me what would be the best glue for laminating sapele? I hope to be making up the rubbing strake for the bow section of Jammin at the weekend. I will be using 6x40mm section so hopefully that will be thin enough to bend to shape.
cheers
Mick. |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 15 Jun 2011 : 12:04:05
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How long is a piece of string???
Waterproof PVA will do the job, but will need protecting when finished. This would be the best from an ease of use perspective. But will take time to dry.
2-part epoxy such as "Wests" would probably be the 'best' from a strength and bonding perspective. But messy to work with and will still need protection from UV light. Good yacht varnish will do this.
Other glues are available, they would be my ones to consider.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 15 Jun 2011 : 15:20:43
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As Dean says, 2-part epoxy from Wests, here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/
UV is not an issue in a glue-lam joint but could be if just painted on and exposed, as in a "stitch-and-glue" boat for example.
Cut a mould and form around it, clamp down to retain the curve until the glue sets, normally 24 hours as you do not want a super-fast-setting glue for timber lamination work or else it will set in the pot whilst you are still fiddling about. Wests do a 6 hour pot-life one - ask for that.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
Edited by - cliveshep on 17 Jun 2011 13:24:57 |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 15 Jun 2011 : 22:41:09
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Polyurethane from Toolstation I use it for ceder and It is excellent for glueing wood to fiberglass. You can get 5 minute or 30 minute. Also it foams up and fills gaps also resistant to salt water. Simple way of applying it is cheap tooth brushes because you cannot clean the glue off
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stumpy
United Kingdom
33 Posts |
Posted - 16 Jun 2011 : 09:32:46
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Thanks for the info guys you've made my mind up to go for Wests.
cheers
Mick. |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 16 Jun 2011 : 18:52:41
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| Good luck with your gluing. Polyurethane is so easy no mixing straight out of the tub onto the wood and clamp and very strong |
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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
Posted - 17 Jun 2011 : 21:57:56
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I'm may be wrong here (Clive will probably advise better) but doesnt saple have a high resin content that prefers oil than varnish unless its dried a little ?
Just something I seem to remember from talking to a joiner mate
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 19 Jun 2011 : 07:04:06
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Appreciate that Adi but all I can advise is that any oil treatment will darken the wood right down over time although it is used on furniture in combination with shellacs. However, boat-builder's have never gone down that route and simply use thinned out varnish as a first coat, with all subsequent coats using a little less thinner each time and a good flat off in between coats.
I'm a lazy sod, so a thinned out 1st coat, (I can't be bothered trying to get a Riva finish on a Norman mast for example) so after the 1st coat I just slap it on to build it up, a good sand and then a coat to finish. That of course will offend the purists but you can spend a couple of grand's worth of time doing varnish on a project worth a couple of grand at the end of the day. The trick is building up, thinned-out coats to raise the grain, let it dry, flat-off, another thinned-out coat, dry, flat-off, and so on.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
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stumpy
United Kingdom
33 Posts |
Posted - 19 Jun 2011 : 09:33:59
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I was going to use Tung oil as its easy to apply and so makes touching up any scrapes etc a couple of times a year a doddle.
Mick. |
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Best glue
