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Colinanglin
4 Posts |
 Posted - 26 May 2017 : 07:29:17
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| Has anyone had experience of repairing timber rubbing strakes. Mine is a 24ft Norman. are the original fittings captive nuts , or can I just use self tapping screws. Any advice would be welcome |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 26 May 2017 : 08:07:20
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I believe self tappers are the norm, use A4 stainless as A2 can be a bit brittle for screwing into grp.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 27 May 2017 : 14:56:16
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Usually screwed through into a glassed in batten inside. Bore 12mm hole about 8mm deep, then drill for the screw and c/sink it. Get yourself a 12mm pellet cutter so when you've driven the screw home you can cut wooden pellets from a scrap of waste and glue them into the 12mm hole and clean off flush.
Finally living the dream!
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Andywood
United Kingdom
42 Posts |
Posted - 29 May 2017 : 21:44:59
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| I'm just in the process of putting new ones on, as the old ones crumbled. I'm using 30 mm m4 size nuts. I have found that whoever put the original strikes on didn't drill the holes at regular intervals, so the wife has had to hold the strakes in place whilst I drill marker holes. Then remove the strakes, drill through the wood and get the wife to hold it in place whilst screwing through and tightening. |
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Canveysteve
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 15 Jun 2017 : 15:43:24
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What timber did you use
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Andywood
United Kingdom
42 Posts |
Posted - 18 Jun 2017 : 12:44:39
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| It was something beginning with a c I think. No I remember it was Sapele, got it from a timber merchants down the road, cost me £50 cut into strips, then I've stained and whacked on 3 coats of varnish. |
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jud
United Kingdom
113 Posts |
Posted - 13 Jul 2017 : 10:48:17
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Advise please. When apiece of wood has been steamed to enable it to follow the curve of the bow, how long does it remain pliable for?
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trevork
3949 Posts |
Posted - 13 Jul 2017 : 11:44:50
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| I suspect only until it cools and dries but there are experts here that may say otherwise! |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 13 Jul 2017 : 16:50:14
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As Trevor says, once cool it is rigid again, form it quick while hot and allow to cool while clamped.or fixed.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 14 Jul 2017 : 12:57:34
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Make up a mould to form your steamed timber round, whip it from the steamer with leather gloves and bend it quickly while pliable.
Choose your wood carefully looking at the grain because if the grain runs diagonally across your batten it will fracture when you bend.
One more thing - the timber takes up moisture and expands about 10% in the steamer so do not expect it to mate with unsteamed bits until you let it thoroughly dry back out. Bit of a pain but guess why boats take so long to build and cost so much. Of course if you are steaming oak for an old Thames barge that doesn't matter as you aren't going to varnish it anyway.
A far quicker alternative is to cut thin strips of timber which will cold bend quite easily, form round a mould with a caseine glue like Ultramite, building up until you have the desired thickness. Do coat both mating faces and make sure the glue is not like water - it is a gap-filling glue. Clamp up and you can take it out the following day and use it. Most boat-builders these days use the glue and laminate method to get around curves like the bow.
Finally living the dream!
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Andywood
United Kingdom
42 Posts |
Posted - 16 Jul 2017 : 16:51:33
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| The sapele that I used had enough flex in it to be screwed in without steaming |
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Rubbing strakes
