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Andywood
United Kingdom
42 Posts |
 Posted - 05 Mar 2016 : 08:20:28
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| Hi all! Just thought I'd let everyone know that I'm writing a blog (with pics) of my attempt to restore my £7.50 Norman 23. If you want to check it out then go to andywoodworld.blogspot.com where I will be chronicling my misadventures#128546;#128513;. |
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tigtog
United Kingdom
421 Posts |
Posted - 29 Mar 2016 : 20:37:06
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| How you getting on with her |
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Andywood
United Kingdom
42 Posts |
Posted - 02 Apr 2016 : 20:34:42
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Making steady progress. Have had to rip EVERYTHING out. Am now down to just the fibreglass hull. I'll be updating my blog next week and will put loads of pics on. I'm having to restore on a zero budget so have been worried about how to afford the marine ply, so bit the bullet today and sold my beloved motorbike . Now I have enough cash for the ply, but a sad empty space on the drive. |
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Landor
United Kingdom
46 Posts |
Posted - 02 Apr 2016 : 21:59:50
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I've got a 650 Deauville if you want one, Runs but bit of a project 
I sound like you, beed the cash for paint etc. |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 03 Apr 2016 : 05:11:10
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You don't really need marine plywood for internal use, just protect by glassing in the bits below floorboards down to the hull. Ask instead for Far Eastern WBP which has the same BS.1088 gluing as Thames Marine Ply but a price of maybe 25%. It will still varnish if that is what you want and is made of hardwood veneers but not the Marine ply quality.
An alternative WBP is Chinese which has white internal cores and a reddish outer veneer with a good finish BUT you need to cut it carefully to avoid seeing white edges if you varnish it. The gluing again is to BS 1088 - they say! I have used it in boats though.
The main thing is that whatever you do you must bond in bulkheads with resin and glass tape to hull and sides and if possible also the bunks and anything else that contributes stiffness to the hull. I mention this as you say you have stripped the boat back to it's hull.
Ideally set the hull up ashore on chocks, NOT old tyres, levelling it for and aft and athwartships with a spirit level. Aim to set the hull to the desired waterline level, so many Normans look dejected on the river - "nose down arse up" due to a lack of trimming ballast. Choose your ideal trim level ashore, use a spirit level or a builder's level to make sure the hull is levelled properly, then everything you build inside is done with a level - easy peasy.
Later as I said you ballast the hull to trim it so she lies to her "marks". Adding ballast also helps stability and steering so don't be afraid to do so. Batteries and engines help, but with water tanks often in the bows you get that hangdog nose-down attitude without ballast aft.
Finally living the dream!
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Restoration blog
