After making 20 doors I feel as if I will sometime get my 32 on the water.Last major woodwork is to line the forward cabin roof with tongue and groove.
Front cabin foof lined My Kabota engine marinised My own design marinising the engine. The raw water first goes through the bottom heat exchanger which the copper pipe is in which is the condenser for my air con (if it works when fitted up in the boat). Then through the white exchanger which cools the engine then out through the exhaust.And as you can see by the water coming out of the exhaust it works.
That's what all the interior looks like when fully finished. Every single piece of ceder machined my self and all British grown. I can't wait to spend my first night on it when its finished.
Because ceder is about half the weight of marine ply I could be short on weight. Which could give me problems with low bridges and tunnels. My gross target weight is under 3.5 tons so I can tow it with my discovery. My tri-axle trailer is 750Kgs
You could always use flexible bladder tanks for ballast if you have any headroom issues and empty before towing, would take a lot of water to get much drop in the water though.
I have made a Fibreglass 100 gallon fresh water tank full width under the cockpit floor. so that can give me 1000 lbs plus a compartment in the bow where I can put more water containers.
Be careful if using that tank for potable water, grp can leech styrene back into the water, there is a potable water grade of resin but it takes 24 hours at about 80 degrees C to make it properly safe, I opted for a polyurethane liner in my home made grp tank in the end.
After fitting the engine I'm concentrating on the rear deck. Fitting seats and making duel controls.IE when the weather is good I can steer with a tiller which is also used when the cockpit is lowered to go through tunnels and low bridges' but when its raining I can steer with the wheel in the cock pit. Also stripping the paint back to the gel coat ready for repainting.