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musicman
95 Posts |
 Posted - 08 Apr 2012 : 20:43:48
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Hi all,i have a norman 23,with a ford engine,about 1980ish.the problem i have is uneven running,engine starts ok,and idles ok,but when i take boat out in river and apply power it nearly cuts out, so have to run really slow,then it will run with power.then nearly cuts out, seemed ok when running with current,but struggled against it.I tethered boat up and run in gear on mooring,run fine for 15mins,no problem.am wondering wear to start,had boat now for over 3 years,no problems with running before,,i used s cold start spray to get boat going a few months ago,would this have clogged up the carb.
have never changed points,or condensor,wonder if this may not be helping,the four star has been in tank for over a year,about 3 gallons,i topped up with 1 gallon of fresh,dont know how long 4 star lasts.hope its ok,,so expensive.thanks all |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 08 Apr 2012 : 21:40:17
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If you have never changed points or condenser plus had to use cold start on a petrol engine that sounds to me like an engine that has been a bit neglected?
Why not service everything properly and then try again.
Also - have you checked the leg? I assume you have a Sonic or Enfield leg given that shaft drive Normans in that size are like lottery wins - rare!
You could well have ten tonne of rope, old weed, plastic bags and supermarket trolleys dangling from it.
Service engine - plugs, points and carb. Use a carb cleaner if you don't have an air line, the usual culprits are the slow running jets - you'd be amazed at how that screw up performance across the range as the engine refuses to rev up properly. Check the accelerator pump too.
Valves - adjust tappets, use the rule of nine for this. Ignition off, count from front, which ever valve is down, say the 3rd, deduct from nine, adjust 6, and so on. Turn engine over with a wrench on the flywheel pulley to set the valves down. You'll be able to do 2 at a time.
Leaving off the float chamber top give the engine a few cranks - is petrol coming out with a healthy squirt (don't let it squirt into the bilge, use a container to squirt into). If not - filter or pump suspect.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
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Lester Mayo
United Kingdom
289 Posts |
Posted - 08 Apr 2012 : 21:40:44
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sounds like fuel problems clean jets on carb also you may have some water in fuel if its been standing a while.
Don't take life too serious, it's not permanent |
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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
Posted - 08 Apr 2012 : 21:44:56
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If its starting & idling ok but cuts out on throttle then prob fule related - idler jet ok but main jet may be blocked.
Also check the air filter - if you choose to try it with the air filter off be carefull as the ford carbs can spit back fuel out the top (Not recommended for anything other than a quick test.
Another thing could be degradation of the fuel lines - had it in a 1300 astra many years ago - as soon as heavy throttle applied the fuel feed line sucked in as the wall had collapsed.
Would check carb out first, sounds like a fuel prob
Yr fuel will be stale but the fact its starting shows its still combustible !
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 09 Apr 2012 : 11:05:32
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Petrol evaporates and leaves all the additives behind in a gungy sludge that blocks jets, sounds like the issue to me, give the carb a good clean out and service the engine while you're at it, I'd be tempted to dump the points and fit an electronic ignition kit to it instead.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 09 Apr 2012 : 22:18:23
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| No need for me to put in my 2 penneth as all advice given is correct.The first engine I built was a ford Thames 15 cwt van if any one remembers them. You should have seen the engine I put in an army pontoon when I was in my teens a 1946 ford 8 Now I'm showing my age |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 09 Apr 2012 : 23:16:29
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I have had small Fords in boats before and more often than not most problems lie with the ignition system. Replace the points, condenser and plugs first. Check the timing and clean out the carb. There is possibly a fine petrol filter situated in the carb body, between the fuel connection and the float valve. Often overlooked.
If no improvement, consider replacing the plug leads and dizi cap. If possible, check the dynamic timing (if you have access to a strobe)
The insulation in the coil often breaks down due to the slow revving of the engine so if yours gets very hot in use, junk it and buy a new one.
A dwell meter may be a better way of setting the points but as DF suggested the electronic systems are so cheap these days. Many folk on the Freeman site rave about the improvement to their boats after fitting them... all small old Ford engines....
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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musicman
95 Posts |
Posted - 10 Apr 2012 : 20:35:45
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| Thanks a million guys for the info,,,what would be the best carb cleaner to use,also i do have a new set of points,and condenser on the boat,but how hard job is this on a boat,,have done old cars a few times,but have always rocked them back and forward to get precise opening,,,also guess best way is take of distributer, am ok to mark with pen wear taken of,and when to put straight back as was,,silly question probally,but do panic when boat conks out,,,wish had AA on river,but guess that may take fun out of it,,,,thanks again ,is Fred still on here, the guy helped me out a while ago with an overheating problem,,thanks Fred,have to laugh,im a sort out person when a boat has an overheating problem now,, |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 10 Apr 2012 : 22:25:18
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Don't take the dizzy out, use a spanner on the crank pulley nut instead of rocking.
Easier to replace with electronic kit, new coil to match, re-time with a stobe light after doing a rough timing by eye.
Also check the advance/retard mechanism is working if higher rpm is the problem, theres probably a set of flyweights under the backplate in the dizzy and a vacuum pipe to inlet manifold.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
Edited by - df on 10 Apr 2012 22:28:33 |
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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
Posted - 13 Apr 2012 : 22:18:55
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With regard to the electronic ignition - Chap down our yard has a early Freeman with a 105E Ford Motor , recently purchased a Electronic ignition set built into his Dizzy for £35
Seems a bargain & now the motor is running sweet - Can find details if required.
(Based on my experience with our ford I still think its fuel / carb related , but a nice new ignition system would be a bonus!)
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
Edited by - adi-n-chez on 13 Apr 2012 22:20:24 |
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Uneven running inboard
