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Peter Walker
United Kingdom
58 Posts |
 Posted - 22 Jan 2012 : 18:23:07
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I have an ancient Norman 22 that I am slowly improving, and I have been looking at doing the cabin windows this year (they leak and I have lots of rotten wood to replace, well some of it is chipboard actually but we won't go into that!) I have identified the new seals I need from Seals+Direct and I plan on dismantling the sliding windows and trying to seal them later this season.
However, I was looking at the other windows which are all Perspex, one of which I re-sealed last year with new Claytonrite and Silicone, and I was wondering if I couldn't improve them. For instance the aft-most side windows have had a history of Navigation Authority stickers, each of which has left a little glue and of course you cannot use solvent to shift the glue on Perspex! Why not replace the Perspex with toughened glass? The pieces are apparently flat, what could be the problem?
So, have any of you done this? Is there anything I need to look out for if I make this improvement?
Thanks in advance for your help
Norman 22 on the river Avon, Warwickshire |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 22 Jan 2012 : 23:55:02
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| I'm changing the perspex in my 32 for laminated glass which can be obtained from glass company's as long as it is flat. Some perspex windows in Normans are curved. Toughened glass is the one that goes into a million pieces when broken. It is heat treated after it is cut so expensive. If I am not correct hope some one will comment. |
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merlin
United Kingdom
400 Posts |
Posted - 23 Jan 2012 : 16:56:06
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I am still re-fitting my norman 23 first job was to replace all the glass. shapes and holes are no problem use the original as templates
or make the templates with hardboard its easier to work with than ply
ply tends to splinter at the edges mind you toughened glass is not cheap I was over £400 for my lot but well worth it
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merlin
United Kingdom
400 Posts |
Posted - 23 Jan 2012 : 16:56:59
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| sorry technical issue |
Edited by - merlin on 23 Jan 2012 16:58:59 |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 23 Jan 2012 : 17:08:49
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For the small portholes why not use perspex and sand-blast the inside - or use emery cloth to get the same effect? You really don't need to look out of them - they just let in enough light to find the toilet roll and it means you can keep what you already have. I do have sand blasting equipment but I think emery cloth would do the job with a little patience. Then you'll never see the scratches.
For the windscreen - I have taken the option to use plain untreated glass before as unless you propose to attack low bridges it is fairly safe. Side windows toughened or laminated yes - they are vulnerable to things you moor against or to getting kicked as you struggle up those narrow side decks.
Front windows may of course have a slight compound curve and would need to be perspex or the more expensive Lexan which is a polycarbonate. You can cut those yourself with a mini grinder and a thin Inox blade that will cost you all of 50p. The grinder - anything cheap will do. E-bay is good for cheapies.
A grinder cuts perspex cleanly whereas a jigsaw creates so much heat it melts the stuff which seals the cut behind the blade after it has passed. always assuming it doesn't lock up and crack the perspex or weld it's blade into the cut!
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
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lord john
United Kingdom
262 Posts |
Posted - 24 Jan 2012 : 13:50:32
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just a thought.all comments welcome use normal glass but cover it in clear plastic (the type you tint car windows with)so if it does break the pieces are held together.Might be a cheaper option and not difficult to do.
if a hammer wont fix it,it must be electrical. |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 25 Jan 2012 : 01:56:04
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Clever Idea that. Plastic on the inside perhaps?
Hmmm - that would work - well done that man!
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
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Stan the Man
United Kingdom
134 Posts |
Posted - 27 Jan 2012 : 07:51:55
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When making the new side panels for my front windscreen, I used laminated glass. I did find that the cost between various local glass suppliers varied quite substantially so it is worth shopping around.
I chose laminated as it can be cut there and then whereas with toughened it has to be specially ordered in. |
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Peter Walker
United Kingdom
58 Posts |
Posted - 09 Feb 2012 : 20:57:53
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I called at my local glass company in Coventry and showed them a photo of my boat - we discussed how to do the windows. Their recommendation is for laminated glass 6.4mm which they can cut to shape: 2 front windows approx 24" x 12" with rounded corners for less than £20 each, 2 side windows (parallelogram shapes) approx 18" x 14" for less than £15 each. For this price I think I shall give it a go! I will let you all know how it goes when I get around to it. (Probably after Easter at the present rate of progress)
Norman 22 on the river Avon, Warwickshire |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 11 Feb 2012 : 08:31:43
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| For laminated glass some old double glaze units will have laminated glass if they were close to the floor, try double glaze company's for miss measured that is if you are capable of cutting glass |
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Peter Walker
United Kingdom
58 Posts |
Posted - 14 Feb 2012 : 16:27:03
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I can cut straight cuts in ordinary window glass, and I don't even mind trying to drill holes but cutting laminated is beyond me and curved cuts in laminated glass is strictly for the professionals
Norman 22 on the river Avon, Warwickshire |
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Topic |
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Glass instead of Perspex in windows?
