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ken cattell
United Kingdom
192 Posts |
 Posted - 14 Jul 2011 : 19:40:41
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Well the Conquest rebuild drags on at regulation pace of two steps forward one back. The entire boat has been rewired, originally having 3 switched circuits it now boasts 9! How come a boat which bow to stern is about 6 metres long can eat 60+ metres of cable?
Thoughts turn to waterborn issues. ANCHORS? What type, size, and material?
So the boat is going to be used mainly on the upper Thames, say down to Oxford with occaisional visits to the canals either via the river or trailered. Its a 20 foot Conquest, what does the collective wisdom suggest? 1 or 2 anchors?, of what size? An anchor and a mudplug for the stern?
The info sought from other sites seems to refer more to sea going craft where issues like secuitity during swinging seems to be important. I didnt think that was a problem unless your partner found out!
Cheers folks. |
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Deano
United Kingdom
1843 Posts |
Posted - 14 Jul 2011 : 20:13:23
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I wouldn't bother. Unless you are going to sea or are in fear of going over a weir with a failed engine I'll bet you never have reason to use it. It will just get in the way, if it doesn't get stolen!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 14 Jul 2011 : 21:01:34
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Sorry Deano - in this one mate I have to disagree having boated the Thames from source to sea many times in my lifetime. Unequivocally I'd say if you are going to anchor overnight Ken, buy two anchors.
I used to habitually stop at anchor for preference, one because I could overnight in the prettiest bits, two because I preferred to be away from other people and their kids, noise, dogs, three because in some places the local scroats would pull out pins or untie boats on their way back from the pub, and finally because banging against a concrete wall when someone went past in the middle of the night or the early morning hire craft hacking up and down wasn't particularly restful in a small boat.
The 2nd anchor was used to stop the stern swing, the main or bower to hold the boat against the current which as you may know can get a move on if there has been a big shower overnight. You'll also want to moor clear of the main channel so stopping a swing can become pretty important if you are only 3 metres or so off the bank. We used to stick ours up weir streams a lot, no-one else was ever there. Your choice though depends on your muscles.
The Thames is an alluvial river, with mostly soft mud bottom apart from around Marlow where it is gravel or below Maidenhead where it is also stony. Weed grows on the bottom like miniature trees, thick root rhizomes that make hauling a bit of an exercise and the Danforth pattern does not come out clean but with great clods of mud and weed on it. It holds you, it's getting it back aboard without a maritime plantation attached.
I'd recommend something that clears fairly easily, the old folding stock fisherman pattern I used for years but they are bulky. A good hold and reasonable clearing as you haul (dunk it up and down a couple of times) is the plough or CQR pattern, you'd want 4.5 to 5 kg for a bower on a 20. Allow at least 2 metres of 8mm chain to pull the stock down or it won't set, the rest can be either 10 or 12mm 3-strand nylon.
For the kedge, as you only want to stop a swing, you could use a folding grapnel type - they're cheap, or a Danforth pattern, also cheap, and again a couple of metres of chain plus rope. I'd stick with at least a 4kg. Personally I think I'd go for the grapnel folding type as it will stow in a small space and you'd never accuse a Danforth of being economical on space.
Don't be mean on anchor rope either, allow at least 5 times maximum depth plus a couple of metres, so for safety a 40metre anchor warp at either end. If you want to use the anchor lower down stream you can have significantly more water underneath, I've recorded 4 metres and more below Shepperton in places, and 3 metres is not unusual. Even up near Lechlade expect 2 metres of water or more. As for the tideway - that carries ships and is a different kettle of fish altogether. Also of course there can be a 6m or more tidal range. I also recommend a tripping line with an anchor buoy on it, if you cannot recover you can always tow the thing out with the tripping line and the float (only the size of a small plastic football) allows you to see where your hardware actually is and warns others.
Buy yourself an anchor light, the LED ones are not cheap but don't flatten the battery either and at least you won't get wacked by a passing trip boat.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
Edited by - cliveshep on 14 Jul 2011 21:03:19 |
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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
Posted - 14 Jul 2011 : 22:54:47
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Anchors on the Upper Thames could be useful , Having boated it last yr I had no need for one for mooring but if you want to moor off bank then its essential. Like Clive says it is nice to moor away from the crowds occasionally
Mud weights could be an option , we find a 56lb wt holds my mates 20 in the strongest weir pools on the Trent .
But consider the fact that you may pluck up the courage to cruise the Tidal section of the Thames , even if its the relatively calm section from Teddington to Brentford an anchor is a must !
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
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Anchors??
