| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 01 Dec 2017 : 21:36:39
Hey All,
I have recently come into ownership of norman 23. It is a project boat. the previous owner started the stripping of it, my first question is the weights have been removed but i do have them, is there a set place to put them back into or do i need to spend time and do the maths? my next question is the motor, it is a sterndrive motor. I am a Mechanic and i have a decent knowledge of engines, is there a maintance manual or shall I find some help?
All help appriciated
SAMUEL HODSON |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 04 Jan 2018 : 06:41:05
By far the best and cheapest plus most reliable for prop rebuilds are Streamlined Propellers in Aldershot.
They operate a postal service too so you can call, get a price, wrap it and post it and they'll post it back like new.
Here: http://www.streamlinedpropellers.co.uk
Finally living the dream!
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| df |
Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 18:52:17
You'd be surprised at some of the lumps that can be welded back and re-shaped so don't chuck it till you've spoken to a prop repair place.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 10:04:17
IT seems jaws has had a go at it. there are chunks missing out of it
SAMUEL HODSON |
| df |
Posted - 12 Dec 2017 : 17:13:11
Props are a bit of a black art unfortunately, you'd be best talking to bob knowles or chertsey meads marine for advice on prop choice for enfields, what's up with the one you have? Can it be tried as a starting point?
It should have it's size stamped on the hub in the form of diameter X pitch, diameter is usually 14" on enfield 130 leg, I had 14 x 10 on my old boat with twin peugeot 1.9 diesels(non-turbo), it was originally on 14 x 14 when it still had the 2.5 bmc diesels in it if it helps at all, that was an RLM 31 at approx 5 ton.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 12 Dec 2017 : 16:05:25
Thanks for the suggestions, while i am at it. are there any suggestions short of changing the engine to improve the power output. its the 1800D BMC. and suggentions on the best Prop as it needs replacing.
SAMUEL HODSON |
| df |
Posted - 11 Dec 2017 : 15:40:00
It will need bleeding well with the final bleed done at the injectors, crack the nuts on the pipes loose and spin over with throttle in full open position (in neutral)till fuel starts to spurt from the pipes, tighten one at a time while still spinning over and it should start to fire as you crack the nuts up.
A heat gun up the inlet manifold can help in the cold weather.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 11 Dec 2017 : 12:02:55
First attempt at firing the engine has failed sadly, not 100% sure why but I have a good idea. Just to keep anyone who cares updated. also the fact that it was snowing and frozen didnt help
SAMUEL HODSON |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 06 Dec 2017 : 10:27:22
thanks very much for the explanation, I had done my research on it, but your explanation is way better.
SAMUEL HODSON |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 06 Dec 2017 : 02:03:17
You can connect to a dustbin- wheelie bins are good for this - of water with a hose from the pick-up into the bin. You'll probably need to remove the inlet sea-cock and extend the hose through the hole into the adjacent bin as it's asking a lot for the pickup to suck water up over the cockpit coaming from the ground below.
The exhaust will be water-cooled, water passes through the heat-exchanger in an indirect system and is injected into the injection elbow of the exhaust manifold. That is why when you see boats in the water you see water spat out with exhaust gas. In an indirect system there is a heat exchanger, this replaces the radiator in a road vehicle. Most often a Bowman exchanger is fitted, this incorporates a water jacket around the exhaust manifold and a sealed tube inside with a water connection at either end.
water from the thermostat/top hose connection goes into the main jacket going out the other end through through oil coolers, calorifier for domestic hot water, and returns to the engine to recirculate.
The sea-water pump driven by a v-belt sucks up water from a sea-cock in the bottom of the boat, this incorporates a strainer to filter out weed, condoms, other detritus, and the water is pumped through the heat exchanger centre tube which is a pipe with lots of small tubes increasing the conduction area, thus removing waste heat from the sealed cooling system before being fed into the injection elbow at the end of the exchanger. Exhaust gas pressure prevents the water flowing back into the engine assisted by the water directed downwards.
These injection elbows take some stick and often corrode, but making your own is dead easy. The size is that of scaffold tube so a piece of scaffold tube a few inches long is cut and mitred to about 30 deg and welded to form the elbow, a hole is drilled in the top and a short piece of 1/2" galvanised pipe is welded in, and the elbow is then welded back onto the original back plate. DIY or local metal worker, I used to make my own.
In the direct system the sea (or river) water is pumped around the engine and is then injected into the exhaust elbow in the same way.
I mention all this drivel in case you aren't aware of how it works.
And at this time of year in the UK - make sure you run anti-freeze through the system before shutting down. Afloat this is easy, turn off the sea-cock with engine off and open the top of the strainer.
Start engine and pour in a watering can of anti-freeze mix until it comes out the exhaust and then shut down engine.
Finally living the dream!
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| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 05 Dec 2017 : 21:41:35
Thanks for the advice, i will look into all of them. I like the diesel aswell for the safety factor. hopefully will have some good pics. do i need to have the boat in the water to test or can i use a large vat of water
SAMUEL HODSON |
| df |
Posted - 04 Dec 2017 : 22:19:27
I'd change the main drive boot for new while it's off as it's a lot less mess and less hassle, I used to change mine every few years, the back to back oil seal mod is well worth doing if not already done.
I filled mine with red diesel on a stand in the shed before fitting and dusted with crack testing powder spray(chalk dust would do it) to check for leaks as it's easier to fix before fitting and floating it, use ep90 gear oil in use(8.5 pints).
The ring anode is a crap idea as if you do the grub screws up too tight they distort the housing and make it leak, too loose and the anode rattles around doing nothing, a pear anode bolted on the anti-cavitation plate does fine and you can check it easier(magnesium for fresh water).
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| stratford4528 |
Posted - 04 Dec 2017 : 21:00:49
There is a lot going for diesel inboard. Very much cheaper to run safety factor diesel versus petrol and as mentioned hot water also plenty of power to charge leisure batteries. |
| hodson.samuel1 |
Posted - 04 Dec 2017 : 20:01:22
That was the plan of the original owner, but I am one of those annoying people who likes to restore as much as I can. Also looking the the time and cost for both options they are about the same. Labour would have been the largest bill and i have set the target of having it ready for next summer. I have already have the engine rebuilt and this weekend will hopefully have the enfield re attached then just wiring. Dare I say so far no major problems have been found. Bearings and boots have been checked and the gear rod been exchanged for the better one.
on sunday you will either see a norman for sale or me going crazy on this chat
SAMUEL HODSON |
| df |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 18:05:02
Tigtog has a very good point there, if the engine and outdrive are off and in bits the bills can rapidly rack up and a modern 4 stroke outboard is ideal on that size of boat for inland use plus you gain the engine space for storage, downside is you lose the option of calorifier for hot water but instantaneous water heaters are pretty good anyway.
A thick stainless plate cut the shape of the enfield outdrive transom plate would make a good outboard mounting with a bit of fabrication and the old outdrive still has some value for spares.
Worth thinking about and diesel smells can permeate through a boat very easily and cling like hell.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| tigtog |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 17:51:52
If its going to cost a lot and take to much time, wack a frame and outboard on her. |
