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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
 Posted - 01 Dec 2017 : 21:36:39
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Hey All,
I have recently come into ownership of norman 23. It is a project boat. the previous owner started the stripping of it, my first question is the weights have been removed but i do have them, is there a set place to put them back into or do i need to spend time and do the maths? my next question is the motor, it is a sterndrive motor. I am a Mechanic and i have a decent knowledge of engines, is there a maintance manual or shall I find some help?
All help appriciated
SAMUEL HODSON |
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trevork
3949 Posts |
Posted - 01 Dec 2017 : 23:16:36
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Not sure what you mean by "weights", do you mean ballast? If you do, this is best left until you have completed any major works that could add weight to the boat and the way in which the boat sits in the water.
Boats like Normans are often "back heavy" plus ballast in the bows can help improve the stability of steering. |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 07:23:36
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Yes sorry the Ballast. Ok great thanks for that information. I have to completely rebuild the interior. 
SAMUEL HODSON |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 08:25:11
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It would help the members to help you a lot more if you were a bit more specific about your stern-drive motor and the leg itself.
What make of engine? Petrol or diesel, what model.
Then the leg, Normans were often fitted with Sonic/Transadrive legs or Enfield 110's.
Or you might have a Volvo Penta lump with a Volvo leg.
Unless you have one of those ghastly Volvo Saildrive units?
Don't forget lots of piccies - you'll need to upload those to Photobucket or Imgur or my favourite Postimage.com first. Photobucket are getting difficult and want money, the others are free. Then you copy and paste the image code into your post on here.
Finally living the dream!
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 09:30:40
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| If its an enfield leg shop around for bearings because if you go to the agents they will charge you an arm and a leg. |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 09:48:51
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Thanks for the information.
I will do, It is kept at a yard. Heading up to it today to get all the right pictures, it was a bit of a rush to the head buy only getting a good look at it today once i remove all the rubbish in the boat. pictures to follow tonight. with regards to the engine so far all I have on it is Enfield drive, petrol.
SAMUEL HODSON |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 09:50:22
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Sorry i am very new to boats so may seem very lame but it is a dream for me. i have always wanted to have one that i could work on and make it a family treasure
SAMUEL HODSON |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 10:17:33
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Hi Samuel and welcome to the asylum.
There's nothing lame about wanting a boat and an old norman is a good a place to start as any (most of us did), it can be done relatively cheaply for an inland only boat (sea going gets rapidly more expensive) but don't spend a fortune thinking it will increase the value of the boat as that's not how it happens, spending a fortune to enjoy the boat and ignore it's actual value is the way to go.
As mentioned enfield bearings are always cheaper through a local bearing supplier as most are standard bearings but other parts get a lot more expensive, luckily most are still in production via bob knowles plant.
Remember there's no such thing as a stupid question if you don't know the answer so ask away.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 17:51:47
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thanks very much!,
Now that i have had a good chance to look at her, she is a BMC 1800D Block with enfield sterndrive. I will have to redo all the wiring any
Diagrams people have would be amazing. I have discovered it may have sunk at some point.
Challange Accepted!!
Still trying to work out how to add the pictures sorry for delay
SAMUEL HODSON |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 18:08:42
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Chances are it sunk through rain water getting in but check the gaiters on the outdrive as they can do it, mainly the steering arm as the big shaft gaiter should just leak gear oil without letting water into the boat itself(but will get into the outdrive).
BMC 1800 is a weaker engine than the 1500 as it is only a 3 main crank where the 1500 is a 5 main crank but no big issue for a relatively low stressed engine, still a fairly sturdy lump, as long as it starts well with not too much smoke it should be ok (not too much smoke for a bmc means not losing sight of the horizon and having locals dying from astma within a 10 mile radius).
Don't try putting it into gear without it running or the gear rod inside tends to bend leaving it prone to jumping out of gear which wears the dogs badly, if you have the leg apart it's worth changing the oil seal carrier for the double seal version (a good bloke with a lathe could make one cheaper)and make sure they face opposite ways to keep water out and oil in, check runout on the prop shaft as they can be straightened by small amounts but best crack tested afterwards.
Guess who used to have a pair of enfields.....
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 02 Dec 2017 : 19:04:54
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Right now the engine is mostly in parts and the sterndrive is not attached to the boat. It was mostly stripped, i have a fair amount of work ahead before i can try start her. I was told by someone i trust it was running before it was taken out of the water. I am thinking while it is in pieces I should check all. the gear rod when you say inside do you mean the one attached to end of wire of throttle or is there one inside the block?
SAMUEL HODSON |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 03:05:59
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If your engine is in pieces you may well want spares for it. The BMC 1-8 lump was used extensively by Thornycroft so you have an opportunity for parts from companies dealing in that marque - not that there are many now. The engine was used in loads of hire boats as it was a chugging reliable lump although the rotary injector pump was a devil to bleed out.
Some contacts that might help you:
For BMC/Thornycroft bits talk to Mike Bellamy at Lancing Marine, he are very helpful and knowledgeable if he is still alive - we all get old! Their website is worth searching too.
https://www.lancingmarine.com
Also for spares you could try: https://www.thornycroftengines.com/contact
As an alternative for Enfield, try Chertsey Meads Marine: http://www.chertseymeadsmarine.co.uk
They can be very helpful, often got s/h bits for old engines too if you go chat to the chap in the workshop. Good for Enfield bits and complete legs.
You are going to need glass-fibre and resin too - these are probably the best for that, they do everything including application tools and do a mail order service that is fast and cheap. Their cheapest resins are ideal for internal and external repairs, don't be put off by the description. One tip - do NOT buy CSM (Chopped Strand Mat) because unless you are a boat builder with spray application for resin you'll look like Santa's beard in no time as the fibres stick to the brush and it doesn't drape at all well. Instead use bi-axial cloth, it drapes and "wets in" easily, ideal for an amateur. Woven roving is also brilliant to apply and "wet in" but more expensive.
If you are bonding in bulkheads etc you'll want the middle weight cloth. https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk
Lastly on these cold winter nights - why not look at my pictures, I gutted and rebuild a little Norman 18.5 I bought for a hundred quid on Ebay, it was done as a photo-record project for a "How to do it" series on another now-defunct web site so no explanations survive but you can ask questions of me.
I leave you with this thought - the only place to use chipboard and mdf is your bedroom at home - NEVER on a boat.
https://postimg.org/gallery/1eewazcao/
The pictures are no longer in order but the original boat was the evil red and yellow monstrosity with chopped up pallets for bulkhead and floors, all covered in 2nd hand lino. That is why it was cheap!
Finally living the dream!
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Edited by - cliveshep on 03 Dec 2017 03:12:17 |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 09:09:49
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Thanks for those suppliers they will be very handy.
[url=https://postimg.org/image/7hlhop5k5/] [/url]
[url=https://postimg.org/image/jxi7ifyw5/] [/url]
SAMUEL HODSON |
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hodson.samuel1
United Kingdom
16 Posts |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 09:12:06
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Thanks for the help! I will get a start and when i get stuck i will
come knocking. I have mostly cleaned it out then i want to rewire and test engine before i start to build interior.
SAMUEL HODSON |
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tigtog
United Kingdom
421 Posts |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 17:51:52
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| If its going to cost a lot and take to much time, wack a frame and outboard on her. |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 03 Dec 2017 : 18:05:02
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Tigtog has a very good point there, if the engine and outdrive are off and in bits the bills can rapidly rack up and a modern 4 stroke outboard is ideal on that size of boat for inland use plus you gain the engine space for storage, downside is you lose the option of calorifier for hot water but instantaneous water heaters are pretty good anyway.
A thick stainless plate cut the shape of the enfield outdrive transom plate would make a good outboard mounting with a bit of fabrication and the old outdrive still has some value for spares.
Worth thinking about and diesel smells can permeate through a boat very easily and cling like hell.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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Topic |
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Project Boat lots to do!!! few questions?
