| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Binker |
Posted - 16 Sep 2015 : 15:19:24
Just contemplating some heating on my 23. Safety first so no naked flames CO (and water) producers. Ayone using Webasto or similar? Gas or diesel?
What do you guys use?
John
Binker |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| philihun |
Posted - 20 Sep 2015 : 14:56:22
The skin fitting is a twin pipe affair In stainless steel. it's very design means it will not ingress water so you don't have to be too far from the water line. Mine is under the sink alongside the cooker which is alongside the water heater about a foot above the water line. Closer to the bottle means less pipe less fittings an less money to shell out. As someone mentioned correctly you don't need ptfe with compression joints but mine has a bsf fitting for a water test valve.
pr hunt |
| Deano |
Posted - 19 Sep 2015 : 21:06:22
No PTFE on compression fittings.... Nor Calortite or other sealing gunk... the BSS man shouldn't like it, but many don't care.
There HAS to be an isolator valve close to the heater if there are other gas appliances (like a cooker) on the boat.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| Binker |
Posted - 19 Sep 2015 : 18:58:36
Good call Knighty.  I know someone who works with gas so a bottle of something should get it done. Gas has always put the wind up me but I'm quite happy working with sparks or plumbing etc…
Thanks again guys. It'd still be good to have a look at one installed on a Norman. When I get one installed Ill post up on here if all goes well.
Binker
Did I really say, "gas has always put the wind up me"? Obviously not to be trusted in an enclosed space. Ahem. |
| Knighty |
Posted - 19 Sep 2015 : 16:21:28
The copper will have to go from where you site the heater to where you want to tee into your existing copper gas supply . Only rubber tube you can use is the bit connecting the regulator to the supply, max 1 mtr.
The instructions for connecting the gas might seem sketchy but anyone who works with gas it is straight forward. If you are unsure and it seems you are I would recommend getting that part done by a Gas safe engineer as you would really need to do a tightness test afterwards which tests the whole system. |
| Binker |
Posted - 18 Sep 2015 : 20:53:36
quote:
Originally posted by philihun
Hi mate, firstly you can fit he heater pretty well anywhere you want(common sense prevailing)ie not alongside the petrol etc. Reason being it receives air and discharges fumes outside the boat through a marine skin fitting which is part of the marine kit. The gas bottle must be in a vented metal lined locker to pass the bss. The connection via the regulator can be hose but the connection to any appliance should be copper tube 8 or 10mm. Don't buy a roll of tube if you only need a metre or so. Go to your local car spares and buy copper brake pipe in your required length, its the same thing. Compression fittings don't need solder just two spanners. Pipe + fittings ptfe and isolator valve also adaptor from hose to copper less than £20 band q or screwfix.
pr hunt
Cheers for that. I that makes it a lot clearer. What length do you reckon for the copper tail from the appliance?
OOH and did you put the exhaust out the side or the transom?
Binker |
| philihun |
Posted - 18 Sep 2015 : 20:00:07
Hi mate, firstly you can fit he heater pretty well anywhere you want(common sense prevailing)ie not alongside the petrol etc. Reason being it receives air and discharges fumes outside the boat through a marine skin fitting which is part of the marine kit. The gas bottle must be in a vented metal lined locker to pass the bss. The connection via the regulator can be hose but the connection to any appliance should be copper tube 8 or 10mm. Don't buy a roll of tube if you only need a metre or so. Go to your local car spares and buy copper brake pipe in your required length, its the same thing. Compression fittings don't need solder just two spanners. Pipe + fittings ptfe and isolator valve also adaptor from hose to copper less than £20 band q or screwfix.
pr hunt |
| Binker |
Posted - 18 Sep 2015 : 17:48:01
Cheers for the link Knighty. I'm unclear on how they are fed by the gas bottle then having never seen one fitted. can you believe that I can't find full fitting instructions on the net?!
Binker
Edit: http://375a913x3pys1u37v08h9nskl4.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/X1_Instructions.pdf
Fitting instructions but the gas side looks sketchy. I'll have to tap a mate for a favour.  |
| Knighty |
Posted - 18 Sep 2015 : 08:40:32
Pretty sure you cannot fit a Propex heater on a rubber pipe and clips, think it has to be rigid copper with compression fittings.
One of the best prices I could find for a two vent kit is here.
http://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/propex-heatsource-hs2000-12v-marine-gas-heaters |
| Deano |
Posted - 17 Sep 2015 : 21:10:36
The cheapest form of heater ducting is the caravan stuff....
http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan/gas/product_31699/air_ducting_65mm_diameter_for_truma_blown_air_system.aspx
Insulate it for a massive heat increase in the cabin. There is some posh expensive Thinsulate stuff sold by Ebber/Webasto, or just use the sleeves from old jumpers, or a bit of loft insulation gaffa taped round. Stay away from straw and torn up newspapers though!!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| Binker |
Posted - 17 Sep 2015 : 20:23:17
I'd spotted that there was a specific marine designed Propex but it's good to have it confirmed
Philihun I think that comment has sold me on the Propex - I think we'd use less gas as it's a smaller space - did you place the unit in a cockpit locker as suggested previously in the thread. I think that would be my preferred option. You used a fixed fitting? I was hoping rubber hose and cir clip would do the job but will take advice and research.
Deano, worth knowing for when I get a bigger boat - don't tell on me! 
Binker |
| Deano |
Posted - 17 Sep 2015 : 19:58:58
Only real BSS issues are if you have an inboard engine...... not ideal to install near fuel lines or tanks!!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| philihun |
Posted - 17 Sep 2015 : 18:19:00
Get a propex, a good bit of gear. Did 9 nights in april and used 5 kg of propane, I also cook and heat my water off the same bottle. Kept my 27 nice and cozy and quite easy to install. Just leak test the joints with fluid and use a sensor if you have one. I used compression fittings 10 mm + an isolating valve £ 4.50 from screw fix.
pr hunt |
| Knighty |
Posted - 17 Sep 2015 : 17:16:59
I was quoted on my Norman 20 when I had it £1450 for a Webasto with 2 outlets.
You can buy a marine Propex kit with 2 outlets for around £500 or so.
Make sure you get the boat kit as the vent and pipes are a bit different to a van/truck kit.
|
| Binker |
Posted - 16 Sep 2015 : 19:08:26
I was just looking at propex
No safety cert issues? Gas is attractive rather than putting yet another fuel on board. I guess there's less drain on the batteries with gas? No glow worm.
Binker
Edit to thanks for your help with this, I'm probably being a windy about it but it is my first time round on everything boaty. |
| Deano |
Posted - 16 Sep 2015 : 18:31:57
Don't overlook the Propex heaters. They are slightly less refined as the diesel ones, but are much cheaper. They run on gas so no need for extra tanks and fuel.
They can be expensive to run for long periods, so no good for liveaboards, but ideal for leisure use.
Ebersacher publish a boat installation manual.... a quick google should find it... the US site has more downlaodable documents than the UK one.
Generally, they can be sited anywhere as the combustion gasses are totally enclosed, but most are in the bilge or a cockpit locker just to make installation simpler.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
