| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 11 Apr 2012 : 13:40:06
Hi there ive just bought a Norman 23 boat however its in bad condition and has been stripped to start again from scratch.
Im fitting a floor but im intrigued, im using wood but what would be recommended as of course there will be wooden struts going into the bilge so obviously this needs to be water tight. Is wood the right material? and if so what should i be using to seal it off so that 2 years down the line the floor doesnt just rot and crumble into a horrible mess.
Any tips pointers and advice is greatly appreciated.
heres some pictures of where were at at the moment
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| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 24 May 2012 : 11:39:24
Ok thanks for all the comments i will give this a try ref the front hull. |
| Knighty |
Posted - 11 May 2012 : 19:13:25
James, the water in the bow under the locker might just be water that got through the windows or wherever the water is getting in and seeping it's way to the front. On my 20 when i bought it i had the same, every time i baled it out it kept returning until i had a prod around with some stiff wire and found drainage holes in cross members under that locker. As soon as i cleared the holes it gushed out about a couple of gallons and after baling that out never returned. The water in my case came from the boat being stored ashore before i bought it and the canopy had come away at the rear and let in loads of rainwater. |
| staniman |
Posted - 11 May 2012 : 12:09:55
Wow I love a good debate so to add to this myself i think it's a mk11 with a different window configeration because of the moulding above the rear sliding window.......I LOVE THIS SITE.......
Gary....sinking in and around Wakefield !!! |
| Stan the Man |
Posted - 10 May 2012 : 21:27:28
James
On "Hunky 'B'" I had some water seepage through one of the pulpit rail mounts and one of the fairleads. What was more surprising was that a leak on the cold water tap (pumped) found its way to the front of the boat if the trim was bow-down. As you are in the process of restoration you water supply might not be operational but it does show how water can travel around during the bilge. |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 10 May 2012 : 00:04:05
Hi firewalker29 thanks for your response, yes i am currently trying that so hopefully that will work, il report back if thats resolved the issue. Also there is alot of water at the very front tip of the boat under the fiber glass seating / bed area any thoughts to where this could be coming from? |
| firewalker29 |
Posted - 30 Apr 2012 : 22:43:40
Hi James im in the middle of doing my norman 23 had the same problems with the windows for the amount of water coming through them they may as-well not been there so i completely removed the window and frame and re sealed them to the boat. check the rubber seals inside the frame arnt cracked and perished if they are replace them. i re sealed the frames to the boat using plumbers mait it non drying sealant that will compress between the frame and boat making it water tight put pleanty around the inside of the frame and when it is tightened it will squidge out filling all the gaps. n just take off the excess. dont try and silicone the leaks this just looks a mess and wont last long someone tried this with my boat took me days to clean it all off and it didnt really work I have a few solutions to some other problems you'll prob encounter maybe not conventional but work well and look good especially if your on a budget.
L Jones |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 16 Apr 2012 : 23:09:34
I see ok thanks for clearing that up :)
Are there any tips for water tighting the side sliding windows? |
| trevork |
Posted - 15 Apr 2012 : 10:32:07
Deano has the answer but, also, the original mouldings were sold at various stages of completion and received lots of very different fitouts. The term a "standard Norman" is an oxymoron (if that's the right term?) |
| Deano |
Posted - 15 Apr 2012 : 07:59:13
The mouldings in the hull top are MkIV, the windows are MkIV, the handrail bases are MkIV.... but the windscreen is earlier. Perhaps someone fitted that later..???? As a replacement.. maybe the original perspex screen got damaged??
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 15 Apr 2012 : 00:54:27
P.s looking at the norman history, the pic that looks like this boat is the norman 23 Mk1 with the grp screen however if i look at the windows etc then is the norman 22? can anyone confirm this?
This is the MK 1 Norman 23 from the the norman range page on this website
This is the MK iV Norman 22
This is my boat...
I know the front windows are different but these were recently replaced so im guessing the trim has been changed??? |
| James Sweete |
Posted - 15 Apr 2012 : 00:49:09
Wow thanks for all the responses, least i know exactly what it is, ive looked around the GRP inside and i cant see anything at all, ive even looked around the outside too to no avail.
Ive found alot of leaks in the GRP on the corners so i have siliconed and re-fibre glassed the holes to try stop the water. My only problems now appear to be around the windows. Is this just a case of removing the windows and re-sealing them up? or am i missing a simple obvious trick?
Sorry if im asking dumb questions but im completely new to boating, ive restored a few cars before so im hoping the experience from that can be passed onto this.
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| cliveshep |
Posted - 14 Apr 2012 : 09:01:43
One further observation - even a new hood will let in copious amounts of water if the wind is in the wrong direction and drives the rain in.
One good reason to over-sheet with a tarp if you leave the thing alone all winter. A couple of ropes to keep in on, and weight it down with plastic 6 litre milk bottles of water around the edges, allowing air to flow under but stopping rain driving in. I mention this because it looks like the Middle Levels in your pic - with flat land all round that allows the wind to drive rain unhindered.
As said - you really shouldn't have bilge water in an outboard boat with no hull penetrations but somehow you still get some eventually, grab rails, windows, hood, screen are all potential rainwater ingress points, and far more likely culprits than the hull unless rubbing strakes are below water-line aft and are letting by the fixings.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
| mike |
Posted - 14 Apr 2012 : 08:29:12
Morning
If you have a trawl through the info on this site, Norman Range, Norman History etc its definatly a 22.
Norman Range says 22 Mk1V, Norman History says 22 Mk2
Year of manufacture about 1967 to 1969
But don't worry its not a 23 there is only a few inches different between the 22 and the 23.
There is a wealth of experiance and knowledge on this site, take full advantage of it, never be afraid to ask any questions no matter have daft you may feel they are because we have all been there.
Top Tip. Always treat the boat as a work in progress, ie. don't wait to get the boat perfect before you use it, clear the cabin, get the engine, steering and electrics sorted and then you can use it for day trips (pub) whilst working on the rest of it SUMMER APROACHES.
Welcome and enjoy your boat
Mike
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| adi-n-chez |
Posted - 13 Apr 2012 : 23:39:48
quote:
Originally posted by trevork
Nay, that's a Norman 22 Mk lll. With regard to the year, have a look right up inside the bows under all the coverings on the bare GRP. See if there are any hand written figures which will tell you the age, model and mould number.
I'll Bow to the Webmaster.......
I thought the stern/ Windows looked like a 22 but never seen one with the GRP screen setup !
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
| trevork |
Posted - 13 Apr 2012 : 23:28:19
Nay, that's a Norman 22 Mk lll. With regard to the year, have a look right up inside the bows under all the coverings on the bare GRP. See if there are any hand written figures which will tell you the age, model and mould number.
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