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 Outboard (pre-1987 Honda 9.9 hp) oil change

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Tom Morgan Posted - 13 Apr 2021 : 07:24:48
This will be my first DIY oil change. The manual recommends 10W-40. Will any 10W-40 oil do, or is there any special grading for outboards?

I made a note in my notebook that 20W-40 is also suitable for use in the UK. If that's right, would you recommend one grade over the other?

(I already have the gear oil).

Grateful for any advice, as always.

Tom
10   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Mad Harold Posted - 23 May 2021 : 03:52:40
I dislike cruising with the canopy up,I find you miss so much of the scenery,and being an ex biker I prefer the open air.
It is also easier to get in and out without having to duck under the edge.On a section with lots of locks,all the getting in and out adds to the fatigue and after singlehanding a dozen locks or so,I need a rest.
Don't reckon 'owt to this getting old business!
Tom Morgan Posted - 22 May 2021 : 16:02:59
MH - I can't get under some of the bridges on the Staffs and Worcs with the canopy up, so dry-weather leisure cruising is the norm for me. It did occur to me recently that I might get under the bridges with the canopy up if I folded down the centre support and let the roof drop a little, but I haven't tried it yet!
Mad Harold Posted - 22 May 2021 : 15:44:24
Your boat does look nice Tom,makes me feel embarrassed about mine.
I see like me you like to cruise canopy down.
I only put mine half down as fully down the hoops prevent access to the outboard for de-weeding the prop.

Tom Morgan Posted - 22 May 2021 : 14:43:09
Coming back to thank members for their advice about oil. I found a 5-litre bottle of 10W-40 I bought for my motorbike (which I sold to pay for the boat) and used that. Of course, I still have plenty left for future use. While I had the ancient outboard at home I sanded it down to bare metal, gave it two coats of etching primer and three coats of Trilux 33. It's back on the boat and here she is on her first cruise (and first proper clean) in 7 months.

Mad Harold Posted - 20 May 2021 : 03:44:40
Put old perol in the car and it doesn'tseem to mind.
After draining the outboard tank,fuel line and carburettor,and putting a new fuel filter on,I thought I had fixed it(surging rpm at tickover)
However on running the engine again I found it was just the same as before!
Further investigation revealed that the loop in the throttle linkage (the bit that allows you to engage gear without increasing the revs,)had moved out of adjustment and with the vibration at tickover was rattling against the throttle arm and as the slightest touch causes the revs to increase,that was the cause of the problem.
pete-preston Posted - 20 Apr 2021 : 11:28:01
Hi Harold
As the price of petrol is high ,sugest you run your car down to half full , pour the stale petrol into the car, then fill it up. That will thin down the stale petrol and the car will hardly notice it .Unless you have a Diesel car !!!! then dont try it
Pete Summerton (KISMET)
Mad Harold Posted - 20 Apr 2021 : 02:58:27
Had a trip along the cut at the weekend,and after a while found my outboard was running dog rough.A lumpy tickover and suddenly racing,and also stopping quite often.
Can only think it is because of stale petrol.Tried to remember when I last refuelles,and it must be a year ago!
Will put a new fuel filter on and refuel with fresh petrol and hope that cures it.
Any suggestions on disposing of 10ltr of stale petrol?
Tom Morgan Posted - 15 Apr 2021 : 16:54:02
Thanks, both. I'll check out the code. I do have a manual for the outboard, but as it's a 35 year old engine, I thought things might have moved on a bit so decided to ask.
df Posted - 14 Apr 2021 : 02:26:34
You will normally find a code for oil specs in the manual for it, the numbers are just the viscosity grade, get one with the same code and you'll be fine (the cheap stuff will likely have the same or newer code on the tub).

NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
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cliveshep Posted - 13 Apr 2021 : 21:03:10
If you don't use Honda's own 10w40 other oils will melt all the metal parts and give you covid.

Actually engines are quite tolerant of oils, no tolerance for NO oils though.

I'd use any modern multi grade 10 or 20w so Tesco or Aldi could be your friend for the boat engine much as they could be for your car. Boats get little use anyway so the engine is being spoilt with an annual oil change. Consider how many hours running a car will do for a 10000m service interval to the annual hours for an outboard.

Several hundred hours is more than likely - how many annual hours does your boat run?

Just make sure when you change or top up the lower unit gear-case oil that it is clean and golden, creamy means the seals have failed - those behind the prop and those below the water pump - always change both and give the engine a new impeller while you're at it. Keep the old one for emergencies if it is still apparently good although only a fool doesn't have a spare new one if he's going cruising plus the tools to change it. Impeller failure and over-heating are one of the major breakdown causes and can cause damage to the engine, warped head and head-gasket failures for example.




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