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 Norman Boats
 Well My Norman has ...............?
 Covering the boat to protect it or cover for sale?
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Carrie Vib

United Kingdom
6 Posts

Posted - 09 Oct 2018 :  16:43:21  Show Profile Send Carrie Vib a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi
We bought a 1977 norman 23 today. Wahoo.
It is under a tree and has a tarpaulin with bottles of water on it which is great. But wondered if there are ever any 2nd hand over boat covers for sale. They are too expensive new.
Any tips owning the boat. First time. It has a mooring on the Thames. Thanks

Tom Morgan

141 Posts

Posted - 09 Oct 2018 :  18:17:35  Show Profile Send Tom Morgan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Congratulations on your purchase. What engine have you got?
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david67

United Kingdom
54 Posts

Posted - 09 Oct 2018 :  20:06:53  Show Profile Send david67 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Welcome to the crazy world of boating where nothing can possibly go wrong but inevitably does, but don't be put off !
I've rarely seen 2nd hand boat cover for sale , from my experience owning a boat on a budget leads you to learn loads of new make do and mend skills. As for tips, speak to every boat owner you can they are a very friendly community and a mine of helpful information.
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2018 :  03:04:50  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Cheapest boat covers were always Travis Perkins green poly-tarps. I had a 40 foot one for my Ocean's winter cover, bow to stern with an overhang, a pole to form a ridge from screen to pulpit and numerous 5 litre water-filled milk bottles plus a few ropes as a back stop to hold it on. Left the windows open so a nice through draft kept the boat dry and well ventilated.

The idea of the water-filled bottles is that in a storm the eyelets don't rip out but also what else can you do to keep it on - you have nothing to tie to on the hull. I had teak-capped rails on stainless steel stanchions all the way round so I had things to tie to, but then you could walk all the way round - it was a far bigger boat than a Norman.





Finally living the dream!
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Carrie Vib

United Kingdom
6 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2018 :  07:37:36  Show Profile Send Carrie Vib a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thank you.
We have a Yamaha 15hp stroke engine
The people that sold it to us made a tarp cover with bottles. It doesn't go right over the boat but ties to the front as it doesn't go right the way along so covers canvas cabin. I was worried the weight with bottles might damage the wooden light pole. ( sorry I don't know the correct boat names yet!
Thanks
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df

United Kingdom
5994 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2018 :  08:53:56  Show Profile  Visit df's Homepage Send df a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
the wooden light pole.

Despite no sails it's still called a mast Carrie, most of us are still learning the lingo at some level.


NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk
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cliveshep

Thailand
1324 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2018 :  14:08:06  Show Profile Send cliveshep a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Vib

Thank you.
We have a Yamaha 15hp stroke engine
The people that sold it to us made a tarp cover with bottles. It doesn't go right over the boat but ties to the front as it doesn't go right the way along so covers canvas cabin. I was worried the weight with bottles might damage the wooden light pole. ( sorry I don't know the correct boat names yet!
Thanks



Doesn't your nav (navigation) light mast come down, either folds forward or pulls out of a socket. Hmm - does it have lights on it anyway? I know some boats just have a silly little thing that is decorative only - not your fault and not criticising you or your boat - it's just the way things are.

Do you have a friend with a few wood-working tools? If so he could make you a mast to be proud of, with concealed wiring to the nav light and capable of folding down for bridges, always an advantage for canal bridges. Done you a sketch, any mahogany type hardwood will do, most woodworking shops would sell you a bit for a fiver or so. The metal work is a cut and bent stainless steel push-plate you can buy on E-bay.

A link is on the sketch.

If you were 6000 miles nearer I'd cut, drill and bend you one here but realistically anyone with a mini grinder and an Inox 1mm disc can cut it. The base part needs probably 5 or 6 holes to get as much fixing down as possible, use Sikaflex adhesive mastic to fix down and countersunk self tapping screws to screw it down.

Stainless steel is a bitch to drill, you need to buy Cobalt bits, not the normal cheap so called "jobbers" drill bits. Lubricate with light oil as you drill, use firm pressure or the bit will get hot. You'll want a 5mm bit and a 10mm bit. Fixing holes 5mm, countersink them with the 10mm. Then drill right through with the 10mm bit for the 10mm pivot bolt.

You need to make sure you put the hole for that in the correct place which is the centre of the circle you used to round off the front bottom of the mast. It follows that the radius of that needs to be fairly big so the wood doesn't split out and therefore the front to back of the "heel", the horizontal part of the mast that touches the tabernacle, should be at least 4 inches, preferably 5 inches (100 - 125mm) Then you can have a nice 30 - 40mm radius curve on the front of the heel.

Once you worked out where the hole goes in the metal and drilled it, clamp the mast into the tabernacle with a couple of 2p coins spacing it. Then drill it through tabernacle and out the other side.

The coins give you a tiny bit of slack that the mast will lean back on.

Note that there is a groove all the way up the mast FROM about 2 inches off the bottom. Cut about 25mm strip off the back of the mast, groove and drill the main part, insert wires to feed forward navigation light and masthead top or anchor light and then glue the strip back on and once dry sand the lot off. Glue on the wedge block to fit the nav light too, it enables the light to be upright, and glue on the button, it helps to chisel out a pocket for the top of the mast to fit into. Pass the top light wire through it.

DO NOT USE PVA so-called exterior glue, use powdered resin glue, Travis Perkins sell it as Extramite I believe, or Cascamite on e-bay

Go for it, make something yourself and you'll be proud of it.I have made loads of these, the one on my Ocean was one I made - see pic.I put a horizontal bit on that one called a crosstree - just for style. The tabernacle was exactly the same as I drew for you, the mast also was the same sort of construction. You can see the lights on it, the ship-to-shore radio antenna you probably won't need LOL but you could use it for effect and to show off and connect it to a car radio - they do work!

Edit - the 2p coins go under the heel to lift the mast a mm or so up from the bottom to allow pivot clearance on the radius.











Finally living the dream!

Edited by - cliveshep on 11 Oct 2018 14:11:06
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Deano

United Kingdom
1843 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2018 :  19:20:49  Show Profile  Visit Deano's Homepage Send Deano a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Beware filling bottles with water as weights..... in the middle of winter, your soft weights will freeze and become bricks, blowing in the wind.... a drop of anti freeze in each bottle can save you some serious topsides damage.....

Strangely, I once was offered a good condition secondhand fitted boat cover and it was for an Ocean 30 Aft cabin!!!! It took some serious "tweeking" to get it to fit my Freeman 32!!!

Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/

Edited by - Deano on 11 Oct 2018 19:22:41
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tigtog

United Kingdom
421 Posts

Posted - 03 Nov 2018 :  16:21:29  Show Profile Send tigtog a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Im on the Thames what area are you moored?
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