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trickyblue
75 Posts |
 Posted - 01 Oct 2018 : 14:36:16
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When I got my boat it had some lengths of broom handle screwed to the mouldings on the roof to act as grab rails. When painting the boat I removed them and got some fresh ones to replace.
I really fancy some stainless steel ones but my problem is that the mouldings aren't wide enough to accept the screw mount bases.
I recently saw a Norman 20 with some fixed alongside the raised mouldings instead.
The owner wasn't around to ask how he'd done this, but with the roof being double skinned is it feasible to do this?
How deep is the void between the double skin...deep enough for a self tapping screw? Or is it doable to go through both skins and use bolts and washers? Anyone ever done this or know whats what?
Please advise if you can!
Thanks. |
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philihun
United Kingdom
283 Posts |
Posted - 01 Oct 2018 : 19:41:36
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My 27 has the rails bolted through the double skin using 12 M5 or imperial equivalant nuts and bolts for each rail. Don't know if they are original fit or what. All i have done is put plastic nut covers over each nut to make it look tidier. Going to boat in the morning, i will take a few pics and post.
pr hunt |
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trickyblue
75 Posts |
Posted - 01 Oct 2018 : 20:31:30
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Thanks, that's pretty much what I was envisaging, very helpful. |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 03 Oct 2018 : 08:42:22
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This is a technique for fixing through a double skin where, as with Normans, the cabin lining is quite thin. It utilises a spacer tube so the load is actually on the outer cabin roof component only.
I include the EBAY link for stainless steel riv-nuts but you only push them through the penny washer's enlarged hole and do not crimp them up.
Needs 2 people to install, and you cut the length of the machine screw to suit so it does not protrude below the riv-nut.
Finally living the dream!
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philihun
United Kingdom
283 Posts |
Posted - 03 Oct 2018 : 18:39:14
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Sorry but i coudn't get to take any photos. Mine must be like Clives great diagram apart from my interior connection has got normal size washers fitted. Might be a factory fit.
pr hunt |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 04:10:15
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Been thinking about this - overly complicated, a cheaper and far easier solution is like this below, flange-nuts with nyloc insert obviate need for washers and spacer tubes and can be held in place and screwed up to the machine screws with a box-spanner or long socket. The hole in the lining matches the flange nut diameter or socket or can be larger to suit the plastic inserts.
As a bonus, you now have access holes to "fish" wires across for interior or exterior lights.
Finally living the dream!
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 08:03:43
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Good plan but make sure you drill the pilot from outside to make sure it all lines up and for the size of hole needed to get the nut through a holesaw would be better than a drill for the plug holes as a drill would be prone to leaving cracks round the hole as it goes through.(a tapered fettling burr would do it well as long as you stop at the right distance)
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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Tom Morgan
141 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 10:37:26
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Mine's going to be a bit of a problem. The previous owner has put in a beautiful tongue-and-groove ceiling lining, without doing the rails first, so unless I start removing that, the only access I have for screwing down the rails is from outside. I think I've worked out how it can be done, but need to have a proper look first, which I'll be able to do from next week, all being well.
Tom |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 12:19:12
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Clean out the existing holes from above and epoxy fill, then just pilot drill and self tappers, use bulked up epoxy for extra strength.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 15:19:11
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A variation on that perhaps Dave, bore out the holes slightly larger than the diameter of the top of a 6mm stainless riv-nut. Grease up a m6 screw and screw it into the riv-nut from what would normally be the back or bottom, put some epoxy into the hole and push the riv-nut down flange first into the hole so epoxy is squeezed out all around it, flush off around the top and when hard unscrew the m6 greased bolt back out.
Reasoning is that a self-tapper might not hold if some lard-arse loses his balance and pulls really hard on the rail whereas a bolt into a properly embedded riv-nut would hold.
Or turn the boat completely over?
We ought to invent a self-help forum for boats Dave, perhaps call it "Practical Boat Owner" lol.
Finally living the dream!
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Edited by - cliveshep on 04 Oct 2018 15:22:46 |
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df
United Kingdom
5994 Posts |
Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 17:23:40
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A proper lardarse would float anyway....
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
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Topic |
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Grab rails Norman 20
