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mumsie53
United Kingdom
68 Posts |
 Posted - 27 Jul 2013 : 14:59:20
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Has anyone, removed/refurbished/ replaced the sliding windows on their Norman.. we have finally accumulated spare funds to spruce up our old girl and the windows are high on the list.. I have new acrylic for the crazed and foggy windows and woold appreciate any input or advice
thanks Pam
"growing old is compulsory, growing up however, is purely optional" |
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merlin
United Kingdom
400 Posts |
Posted - 01 Aug 2013 : 12:29:31
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I refurbished all the windows on my 23 what info
do you need guy.s
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mumsie53
United Kingdom
68 Posts |
Posted - 02 Aug 2013 : 23:12:32
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Hi, I have had a look at them and they seem to be riveted in from the outside.,though the inside trim ring is screwed in. I am assuming I would have to drill the rivets out? could you give me an idea on disassembling please, are they fitted from the outside?
Pam
"growing old is compulsory, growing up however, is purely optional" |
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mumsie53
United Kingdom
68 Posts |
Posted - 02 Aug 2013 : 23:27:45
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Hi, I have had a look at them and they seem to be riveted in from the outside.,though the inside trim ring is screwed in. I am assuming I would have to drill the rivets out? could you give me an idea on disassembling please, are they fitted from the outside?
Pam
"growing old is compulsory, growing up however, is purely optional" |
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stratford4528
United Kingdom
414 Posts |
Posted - 03 Aug 2013 : 00:58:25
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What I have done on my 32 is drill out all the pop rivets and bolt straight through the window and trim with 4 mm stainless countersunk socket head bolts. I then cut off the thread that sticks through the nut. Undo the nut and replace it with a dome head nut which is a nicer finish than a normal nut. The brass bolts that hold the window together don,t normally come out so I drilled them out and tapped 4mm and replaced with the 4mm countersunk bolts.
Hope this has helped |
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kev13
United Kingdom
114 Posts |
Posted - 03 Aug 2013 : 10:50:24
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I did exactly the same as stratford and also replaced all the felt and rubbers supplied by eagle boat windows who were very helpfull.
My frames were a real mess so I gave them a cleanup and had all the parts powder coated grey.
Took a while but worth it. I still had a bit of a problem with a couple of leaks at the bottom front joint so have had to resort to a large blob of silicone under the neoprene trim on the inside channel (non sliding section) so that the water has to exit via the slot in the frame before it can get to the leaky joint.
Good luck
KDavey |
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mumsie53
United Kingdom
68 Posts |
Posted - 03 Aug 2013 : 14:08:05
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brilliant, thankyou both, I have a very foggy fixed window portside front and both rear cabin windows are crazed and foggy..but none of them leak.. when we got the boat the previous owners had bought cut to size new acrylic to put in, the frames seem pretty good, nothing some polishing compund and a mop wont fix...... my front and porthole windows, are black rubber.. I do like the ally ones, are they makeable, I do have an idea for how to make them but not sure if it would work.. quite on a roll now with plans for her "resurrection" lol..
new windscreen is first...she had a folding wooden one that was horribly rotten,and pours water in.. I have drawn up templates for the acrylic and am making an aluminium one that can be removed for the odd low tunnel.. wish me luck 
"growing old is compulsory, growing up however, is purely optional" |
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Peter Walker
United Kingdom
58 Posts |
Posted - 03 Aug 2013 : 17:48:13
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I am repairing the sliding windows on my 22 at the moment - I have just finished one of them and I have the second one to do.
As the others have said, you start by I drilling out the aluminium rivets, then I drilled out the small brass screws that hold the sections together. Lots of sanding then very fine wire wool and finally "Autosol" metal polish to restore all the sections. In my case the brackets that hold the sections together were horribly corroded too, so I bought stainless steel strip 1/4" x 1/8" (Milton Keynes Metals) and cut new pieces. I then drilled and thread tapped the screw holes (MK metals again sold the correct drill sizes and taps) I chose M3.5 x 6mm C/S A2 stainless screws (Sea Screw).
I don't like having the gap between the 2 skins of the Norman as a place for water to run, but I know some folk like to have it accessible to run the wiring. Anyway I mixed 100ml of epoxy with silica filler and spread it over the edges then used loads of clamps to stick the 2 skins together. When it is hardened I can then file the now more rigid edge to fit the frame. The other advantage of this is that it fills the spare hole left from the screws that held the inner trim.
Norman 22 on the river Avon, Warwickshire |
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sliding windows
