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lezz50
United Kingdom
14 Posts |
 Posted - 22 Sep 2012 : 07:27:33
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HI all,am doing a refurb on my Norman 20 and am ready for starting my main electric installation, new gas and water system done.My norman is a 1980 model with the moulded lockers in the cockpit the port side will be my main battery box, this has my outboard battery and 2 leisure battery will be installed for power to lights etc.
First question how do i determine the size of my isolation switch for outboard and main fuse? ( Honda 20 power tilt trim )75 aph battery second question I have maid complete new bulkheads and have installed helm and switch box for my electric fuse box and bus bars etc.
My understanding is of installation is as follows.this is on the positive side
Battery to Large fuse to isolation switch to positive bus bar to fuse box to switch panel then to power lets say alight bulb!!! then the negative wire back to negative bus bar and then battery .
so my question what size will the large fuse be? and all the switch panels i have seen are fused so does that mean i can do away with the fuse box in the system? I have read tony brooks marine courses on line and found it very helpfull but it does answer these questions thanks all P.s still trying to understand how to get my pictures on LOL. Thanks All for your time regards Les |
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cliveshep
Thailand
1324 Posts |
Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 07:48:13
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If I'm reading your post correctly you are proposing using a moulded locker and sticking THREE batteries in it? that is a massive amount of weight on a very small boat. You'll need to add a similar amount of weight to the opposite side to trim the boat.
My solution to your problem would be to install one car battery only - you are unlikely to have more than one cabin light in continuous use at night with perhaps a water pump intermittently and maybe a small tv? Consider your reasonable electrical loads - how much light can you want in a Norman 20's little cabin? By the time it gets dark you'll be ready for bed anyway - if it gets dark early, say around November time, it'll be too cold for overnight boating anyway as heating a Norman 20 is not normally very practical. A Propex for example requires more electrical capacity than your outboard could supply and more fuel than you could carry - larger bottles.
Run heavy cable to a battery master switch - and any will have a capacity to cope with your needs - run the Honda battery cables to that and to negative terminal, and take the loom to the dash board - outboard wiring systems are complete and self-contained.
Then from the battery negative post and master switch run a cable pair in flexible conduit for protection up to your domestic fuse box - meaning the one that deals with lights, water pump etc for the boat. From there run your circuits. You really do not need a main fuse as all circuits are fused via your panel and the runs are so short.
Bear in mind that the MAXIMUM charging output of your Honda is a mere 8 amps - and you'll see where I'm coming from. The motor is designed for propulsion as primary function, not as a generator. Any electrical generation is mainly to re-charge after you've started it and to provide any trim power with some left over for nav lights etc. Honda did NOT have YOU in mind running a floating fun-fair full of fairy-lights. That is one of the downsides of cruising with an outboard boat - the lack of electrical power available.
Edit - read here what BSS require of you and note comments about outboard motor looms too. Note also that for BSS the lack of a fuse or circuit breaker is NOT a fail point. http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination/private-boats
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
Edited by - cliveshep on 23 Sep 2012 07:58:07 |
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lezz50
United Kingdom
14 Posts |
Posted - 24 Sep 2012 : 12:24:08
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| Hi thanks for your reply, yes i understand fully however, my running lights will be connected to my engine battery which will be LED lights, I think i will just have the 1 leisure battery then as it makes sense to the weight aspect and trimming of boat all lights will be LED again, the reason for the battery's i do spend a lot of time on the boat all year round as I Am a big pike fisherman and best time is winter months, the leisure battery i intend to connect to solar panel of correct size.many thank |
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adi-n-chez
United Kingdom
1980 Posts |
Posted - 24 Sep 2012 : 18:34:21
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We run a 75ah Starter & 120ah leisure via a multi switch.
Typically we cruise weekends with just the leisure on using all of our meagre 6ah charge from the Honda to top it up.
Usage is just cabin lights , phone charging & LCD flat screen TV.
We normally have no probs with batt levels (But do cruise!)
However on the couple of days when we ran down into Manchester (long days but short miles so mainly on tickover on locks) we did experience a drain on the leisure - Switching both on for the evening solved that (Of course we have the pull start as a backup). Batteries recovered on the cruise home as we pulled in the long days !!!
I realise that most folks are not insane however & 0f course a solar panel will help (I am looking at some nice flat flexi ones at the moment)
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
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Knighty
United Kingdom
654 Posts |
Posted - 24 Sep 2012 : 23:50:39
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My 20 runs just one 85ah battery and that sees us ok on a day and occasional night out even with the stereo on when cruising.
Also have a solar panel which seems to keeps the battery topped up after a day out, and that's with an electric start o/board. My battery is located at the stern below the outboard well and is isololated by two of the red key type on/off switches, one does the main boat electrics and other wired for the outboard. |
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Norman 20 New electrics
