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Pipiriki02
United Kingdom
11 Posts |
 Posted - 28 Aug 2012 : 21:38:35
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Condensation problem
I have recently acquired a lovely Norman 20 (built 1982), but it suffers terribly from condensation in the cabin.
I have brought a couple of crystal dehumidifies but hey don’t seam to be doing the trick. Any ideas
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Knighty
United Kingdom
654 Posts |
Posted - 28 Aug 2012 : 22:21:23
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My 20 only seems to condensate a little in the winter when on my drive under a tarp. But saying that we only use it as a day boat with the occasional overnighter.
Only vent i have is a mushroom type round vent on the sliding hatch by the bulkhead which is open fully permanently. If it condensates even with no one in it i would check for water/dampness. Go through the cubby holes for anything damp, check the bow locker for any bilge water but ventilation is the main factor. |
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ken cattell
United Kingdom
192 Posts |
Posted - 29 Aug 2012 : 00:49:22
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Welcome and enjoy!
Short answer, better ventilation and more jumpers!
I too was alarmed by condensation when I first got my 1979 Conquest, as its in refit I had time to think about things, warm air and moisture inside / cold outside = condesation (by the bucket load). At the front of the cabin just off the centre line I installed a solar powered extract fan, brilliant,(£45.00, I think, from Thorneycroft on e-bay) works well all the time, doesn't need anyone on board to switch it on, might buy another for the rear cabin. I replaced the original fixed vent located just in front of the windscreen with a variable opening mushroom one (£7.00 if memory serves, again off e-bay). The cabin door which just had one vent at the top was replaced with additional ventilation low down to allow better ingess of fresh air and finally I cut the hatch cover into 2 pieces as A) it as too big to stash away behind the toilet in one piece and B)I can now install the majority of the locking part whilst leaving a 2 1/2" ventilation gap that doesnt comprimise the security of the cabin whilst the boat is unatednted and of course you can sleep on board wih fresh air coming in without getting drenched by it running off the roof and in through an open window! I can supply photos if your sufficently interested. Water in the bilge doesn't help, I found a shed load trapped low down where the front of the cabin footwell joins the hull, wether from rain, a leaky hull or condensation, (the previous owner lived on it and had a big parafin heater! and the boat had been on the water for years) 2 x half inch holes now allow any water that may get in and trapped (I've worked hard in the mean time to prevent it) to drain into the bow section where I have installed an automatic bilge pump plus a sponge and hand bailer just in case! Whist its been out of the water I did take the oportunity to clean off the underside back to original gel goat and regelled it twice to seal any cracks or fissures below the waterline. I still have a couple of tiny drips by the windows to attend to but the big test comes next week when I throw the boat back onto the water for the first time in 20 months. Have fun, insulate your self not the boat, enjoy those new jumpers! |
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mike
United Kingdom
80 Posts |
Posted - 31 Aug 2012 : 12:33:46
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I get involved in condensation control and the use of dessicant(posh name for chemicals that absorb water)in work.
Its not an exact science but for a 20 I recon you would need about 2kg of the stuff. The problem is that it would reach saturation after about 2/3 weeks and would need to be changed.
That's the bad news, the good news is that if you can get industrial sachets about .5kg or so you can put them in the oven on a low heat and they will dry out and can be reused.
That means if you buy say 5kg in .5kg sachets you can put half in the boat and have half at home ready to go.
As I say its not an exact science as there are to many variables but you will need a lot more than you think.
Mike |
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kev13
United Kingdom
114 Posts |
Posted - 31 Aug 2012 : 16:52:09
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| On ebay Item number: 140688372885 for £33 if this is the stuff |
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Condensation problem
