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galway

Ireland
9 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2011 :  21:39:15  Show Profile Send galway a Private Message  Reply with Quote
On my Norman conquest the back window requires replacing. The current set up is a small window that can be opened and a fixed board over the engine well. I would like to to make access to engine easier so I was wondering if anybody has a different set up that works well.

colmdivilly

Ricky

100 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2011 :  22:07:45  Show Profile Send Ricky a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi
On mine there is no board across the gap under the window, you open the window, (and I built inward opening doors under the window as formerly had a raggy old tarp there) so once opened there's enough room to fall out the back!! Ive seen only two with the board setup you mention, both in pics only. Some use it for fuel tank placement tho this would obscure the view in my opinion. I use my back cabin to setup the table, thats where we eat, window and doors wide open to enjoy the view!!

No open river view in the front cabin really, and not much breeze either!

Cheers
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ken cattell

United Kingdom
192 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2011 :  23:15:29  Show Profile Send ken cattell a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Mmm, this is interesting, On my conquest a previous owner has blessed the gap between the two sides with a lump of 4 x 2 timber poorly fitted, I have an opening window to the top and a panel with and small access door below. The opening window swings inward therefore there is not an effective seal between the window and the 4 x 2 board. The board is not effectively sealed at the ends so when it rains water comes in several ways to overcome this a blind type device has been put in place from the guard rail above. The whole thing is pants!! I have tried to get pictures of the engine well/ access hatch from googleing 'norman conquest' which has given me some ideas, yes, including how to invade England with a bow and arrow! I also would like some ideas to 'button up this appature' neatly I intend using the room as a coulpe of berths. Any chance of some pics of your solution please Ricky? Or a visit with my camara and tape measure if your not too far from Swindon.
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Ricky

100 Posts

Posted - 06 Jun 2011 :  23:35:04  Show Profile Send Ricky a Private Message  Reply with Quote
here you go

http://s1185.photobucket.com/albums/z353/RRRRRicky/

Click to ZOOM!!

Hope that works if not I will fix it...feel free to ask more! Bottom section had to be an individual section as the angle prevented the doors opening if made full length

Cheers Rick

PS. east midlands

Edited by - Ricky on 06 Jun 2011 23:40:37
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ken cattell

United Kingdom
192 Posts

Posted - 08 Jun 2011 :  00:13:27  Show Profile Send ken cattell a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks Ricky plenty to give me an idea of how to seal the appature in a practical way.
cheers
Ken
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galway

Ireland
9 Posts

Posted - 08 Jun 2011 :  09:33:07  Show Profile Send galway a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks for replies.


CD



colmdivilly
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Ricky

100 Posts

Posted - 08 Jun 2011 :  09:33:29  Show Profile Send Ricky a Private Message  Reply with Quote
No worries ken.

It took 2 attempts to get the angle of the doors/ hinge side to be flush as for some odd reason, the v-shaped transom area had a slightly wider angle on one side! And as that cut out also is angled backwards.. I simply measured from bottom of window - downwards -, to the point where you can see I left space for a lower slot in section. You cant have full length doors this way because of the backwards sloping angle

This way, I open the doors inwards, slide out the bottom section, open the window (inwards)...and as you can imagine, its a wide open door way! Tonnes of room for working the engine or just enjoying the view! Plus from the rear of the boat it looks 'solid'.

But If I close it all up while cruising, I can barely hear the engine thru that cabin, which is another plus. These pics were taken when the job was initially done, Ive since managed to close the very minor gaps making it totally water and windproof. Used 4 mil ply all round, glossed.

TIP. Get a big bit of cardboard to make door templates with, much easier to cut and 'fit' than real wood which obviously costs money!!

Cheers Rick
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