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| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Sailsy |
Posted - 25 Apr 2019 : 22:29:59
Hi everybody new to site and what a great site it is!
Been looking through the boat register and even seen my boat "susan" a Norman 23 mk2 i think that i now own.
I've done a few jobs added some sockets stereo all going to fail bsc by the sounds but will cross that bridge soon!
I've done a few practice trips up and down the canal in Chester and one thing i think i will need to do is change the windows at the front of the boat!
I have spoken to a fella who cuts Glass and he said he can do curves so my plan is to drill all the the nuts and bolts out remove window drive to shop get him to cut glass and refit what other bits will i need obviously replacement nut and bolts, i take it there rubber seals in there too where can i get this please?
Thanks. |
| 4 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Fred |
Posted - 05 May 2019 : 21:49:00
Simon gave some good tips on restoring N23 windows a good few years back, including how he had successfully used black silicone sealer from a glazier where the correct profile of trim was unobtainable.
The whole post is on the main site "Problem Page" - scroll down until you reach it.
There is so much good stuff tucked away on this site - thanks to Trevor for keeping it going for over 16 years. Jeez, he must be getting old now!
Re-building Norman aluminium framed windows.
Mk.3 Norman 23’s have aluminium framed windows made from extruded ‘h’ section with mitred corners. The corners are held together with fitted steel angle pieces screwed to the aluminium with steel screws. The glass is sealed into the frame with rubber ‘u’ section. If the glass or sealing section needs replacing the whole frame needs to be dismantled to put the new materials in. If the sealant is leaking the steel will be in a particularly bad way, the screws will probably rusted solid and will need to be drilled out.
Take out the window, you can save the brass countersunk screws or replace with stainless steel, they are 2ba but you could use 5mm. Before carrying out any dismantling, get a large piece of paper or card and draw around the whole window and mark the aluminium frame sections to identify them later. I used [PTL], meaning [P]ort side window, [T]op [L]eft, etc, marking each end of the 4 pieces of frame. Use a permanent marker on the inside face of the bit that bolts against the boat. On the inside of the boat there is a 4 piece ali frame for the nuts to tighten up against. As you remove them, mark these also for future identification. The 4 pieces are unique so you wouldn’t be able to get them in the wrong place, but it does make life easier.
Clean everything up, throw away the window seals, steel screws and angle pieces, they are probably all useless anyway. I made new angle pieces from steel plate, but should have used ali or brass to make a rust-proof job. I used new brass 2ba countersunk screws to fix the angles to the frames. Cut strips of plate about 4” long so they are a nice fit in the window slot. Mark the middle and bend to suit the angle of the corners, check against the card outline drawing you did. Find a piece of flat ply or something you can clamp the frame pieces to. Lay the frame pieces over the card drawing on the ply and clamp 2 pieces down forming a tight corner. Put the angle piece in the slot and mark the position of the screws. Drill and tap screw holes a fraction towards the apex of the angle, not directly where they should be. This makes the frame tighten up as you finally screw everything together. A simple trick to do this, instead of putting the angle directly up against the ali frame, put a strip of thin card in first to make a spacer. Once the 4 corners are done, test tighten it up without the spacers and check against the card outline drawing to see if the new frame is as ‘square’ as it used to be. This ensures that all the frame bolt holes line up. Remove one side and slide the glass back in, you may have to shorten some of the corner angle screws. Find some card, wood or metal strip that is the same thickness of the old sealing ‘u’ section. Put these strips between the frame and the glass. Using black silicone sealer, squeeze in the new sealant and smooth off, much easier than trying to obtain the correct size 'u’ section. Let this go off, turn the window over, remove the spacer strips and apply silicone. When this has gone off, the window is complete. I bought black silicone sealant from the glazier that I bought the new toughened glass from, they use black silicone where they cant fit the rubber trims back in on double glazing. I paid £4 per tube, much cheaper than ‘marine’ silicone!
This shouldn’t be beyond anyone that has basic DIY stills, but does require tools, such as a thread tap, a drill and drill bits, hand saw, bench vice, etc. I am lucky in having an engineering workshop at home, but you may have friends that work in engineering that could help do the workshop bits.
These instructions also apply to the top cockpit windows. All but 2 sections are ‘u’ section ali rather than ‘h’ section. The corners are fixed in the same way.
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| stratford4528 |
Posted - 05 May 2019 : 21:43:35
Contact C O H Baines Tel 01892543311. They will send a catalouge and are cheaper and a better range of seals. |
| Colin123 |
Posted - 03 May 2019 : 22:36:42
Hi,
In the same position as in restoring my Norman 23 and looking for seals for Windows.
My big problem is trying to find the profile that fits in the slot on top of the windshield frame.
Love to hear from anyone with any idea where I could find these. Tried seals direct but no luck.
Tr |
| trevork |
Posted - 26 Apr 2019 : 00:41:08
Seals+ Direct Dave, give them a ring and they will send you a catalogue and samples if you give them an idea what you are looking for.
https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/Index.asp
If you mention us you might even get a discount! |
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