Full Screen | Home | My Files | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Private Messages | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 Norman Boats
 Well My Norman has ...............?
 Cabin floor.

Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!

Screensize:
UserName:
Password:
Format Mode:
Format: BoldItalicizedUnderlineStrikethrough Align LeftCenteredAlign Right Horizontal Rule Insert HyperlinkInsert EmailInsert Image Insert CodeInsert QuoteInsert List
   
Message:

* HTML is OFF
* Forum Code is ON
Smilies
Smile [:)] Big Smile [:D] Cool [8D] Blush [:I]
Tongue [:P] Evil [):] Wink [;)] Clown [:o)]
Black Eye [B)] Eight Ball [8] Frown [:(] Shy [8)]
Shocked [:0] Angry [:(!] Dead [xx(] Sleepy [|)]
Kisses [:X] Approve [^] Disapprove [V] Question [?]

  Click here to attach a photo to your post
 
   

T O P I C    R E V I E W
D174812H Posted - 04 Oct 2018 : 20:50:57
We are wanting to put a new deck down in the cabin of our 23. I've had a confusing amount of info and advise about what wood to use. Could any one point me in the direction of the best wood to use please. TIA.

Mark Atkinson.

Relax..... Buy a boat!
7   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
david67 Posted - 09 Oct 2018 : 11:11:52
Ideally you want to make cross bearers from timber about 2" thick cut to the the contour of the hull. you can buy a flexible curve from a graphics supplier which will shape to the hull then you can transfer onto the timber to cut the shape. Leave a good 1" gap under the bearers to allow bilge water to get to the bilge pump. Treating them with wood preservative is a good idea. Then you can lay ply on them, Personally I think 3/4" shuttering ply is adequate but you can spend out more on a better quality if you like. I have glued cheap carpet on the areas of timber that are in contact with the hull to protect the fibreglass.
D174812H Posted - 09 Oct 2018 : 10:37:44
Just taken the deck panel up in the cabin. OMG....... the panel is raised from the bottom of the hull with numerous shapes and sizes of off cuts of timber, non of them are the same size or shape and all are absolutely sodden, but very little water in the bilge. Am I right in thinking this is not the correct way of supporting the deck. I was expecting just to lay the new deck boards on to what was there. What would be the best way of supporting the deck panel please?
cliveshep Posted - 06 Oct 2018 : 14:49:42
Go for a Far Eastern 18mm WBP. I advise people to NOT fix down cabin soles (floor boards), instead leave panels loose with a finger hole for lifting. Ditto cockpits. That way easy to lift to check bilges.

Don't know if you are doing a total refit including cabin furniture, but if so the technique on small boats, i.e up to say 30 feet, is to fit the bunks etc first, and any dinette floor, and then what is left wil be the deepest part of the hull so floor that on minimum thickness joists at the edges. This gives you maximum headroom.

Give all timbers a thorough rot-proof treatment where you have cut or planed them, this assumes you bought pressure treated timber in the first place. Give your floor board panels two coats of preservative varnish stain.

If you really want your floors to look super-professional edge all panels with an aluminium angle, this can be fitted after you glue carpet down. Floatex carpet copes well with muddy feet, or else use a vinyl sheet.



Finally living the dream!
df Posted - 06 Oct 2018 : 00:28:56
In all fairness it's a cabin floor so as long as the bilge is dry any ply should last fairly well, it's not out in the weather or against the river as part of the hull so go cheap (ish).

NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk
Deano Posted - 05 Oct 2018 : 16:32:11
It's getting VERY difficult to buy decent ply these days.

Mainstream DIY centers and builder merchants sell rubbish.... even if they claim its WBP or even Marine.... it probably isn't.

If this is a "forever" boat and you want a "proper job" then its probably worth hunting down some real marine ply, but it is frighteningly expensive.

What is sold as Eastern European Hardwood ply is even worse these days.....

A quality sheet of ply will have many thin laminations, with the grain clearly going in different directions.... it should have a clean and tidy edge. Anything with wibbles and wobbles and lumps of glue should be avoided. After one winter afloat cheap ply will start to delaminate and you will be back to square one.

Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/
stratford4528 Posted - 05 Oct 2018 : 07:30:47
WBP water and boil proof is a label to look for when I was a carpenter.
trevork Posted - 05 Oct 2018 : 00:11:17
I suspect many will say marine ply but, if bought correctly, this is VERY expensive. Wickes profess to do a superior grade of ply which they also say is suitable!

© N.B.A.S. 2020 Go To Top Of Page
Snitz Forums 2000