| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Walfran1 |
Posted - 20 Jun 2017 : 01:37:02
Hi my engine won't start
I have changed fuses
Checked battery ect
But would like electrical diagram of my 1972
Norman Conguest
Any help please |
| 1 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 20 Jun 2017 : 02:13:02
I doubt that one exists. Most Normans seem to have come with a cable or two dangling in a locker by an assumed battery position and you wired it all up yourself. as they only had a couple of lights anyway and no navigation lights it would have been the first owner who wired it up.
Circuits or cat's cradles - all down to owners over the years and remember - there have been a lot of years'
In any event, nothing in the boats wiring is at all likely to prevent your engine starting assuming the battery is charged and it turns over ok.
You need to look at the engine.
Your first port of call should be the spark plug - does it have a nice fat blue spark when you crank it? (Plug out of engine connected to lead and wedged against engine metal (don't hold it with hands). If a good spark and the plug is not sooted and carboned up (wire brush if so or buy new ones).
Check the HT leads, they should be perfect, no cracking of the insulation or leakage occurs killing the spark. In an older engine check or change points and condenser but in a CDI engine if it doesn't spark when cranked after these checks there are only two issues - either a coil in the magneto is knackered or the CDI unit is. Deciding which requires testing against the test data in the workshop manual by the main dealer.
Next check fuel system from tank to carburettor - is fuel actually getting to the carb? If not, is the fuel line sound, no cracks or splits to prevent the engine sucking fuel, is the primer bulb ok, do the tank and engine connectors engage properly or could there be an air leak, does the engine have a filter and is it clean?
With the top off the float chamber crank the engine - does fuel squirt out the float valve, if not is the valve clear? If all is clear buy a fuel pump kit and fit it.
Then get a little more serious, unscrew the top off the carburettor - is there fuel in the float chamber? When you squeeze the bulb does fuel squirt out ok? Next take off the carburettor and strip it, remember EXACTLY how many turns of slow running and mixture screws when you do this, go find an air line and blow out all the little bleed holes in the carb body, they are jets too controlling slow running and being blocked will prevent starting.
They are like pin-pricks in the aluminium casting so easy to overlook. A good clue is you will see tubular profiles in the carb body which are the jet-ways for them. Where they change direction the ends of the borings in the casting are blocked by ball bearings pressed into the casting.
If this is an old engine they often get corroded up with aluminium salt deposits, it's either a new carb or prise out the balls, use a drill bit to bore out the jet ways of salts, blow out and wash out and using a ball peen hammer carefully hammer a fishing lead shot or piece of scrap lead back into the jet way to block it. Do NOT push the drill all the way through and drill out the piercing or you'll knacker the carb for ever.
Hope this helps a bit.
This is a typical small boat wiring diagram, the outboard engine loom is separate and comes with the engine, you can ignore all the instrumentation apart from maybe an ammeter or voltmeter if you want dials and gauges.
Finally living the dream!
|
|
|
