| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 14 Feb 2017 : 13:18:30
Hiya im fitting new strakes to. My norman what is to be used timber wise also what treatment for them
Must b able to get timber from wickes or alike
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| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| stratford4528 |
Posted - 15 Feb 2017 : 15:23:16
I used Jarra on my 32. It was an old railway sleeper I had cut down to 2" x 1/2" and it bent round OK I put three rubbing strakes on from bow to stern including the one round the gunnel |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 15 Feb 2017 : 12:20:51
Will be going to chelmer navigation hopefully so locks
Did toy with just big rubber hose ? Dont have the funds for the real rubber stuff |
| Knighty |
Posted - 15 Feb 2017 : 09:13:51
As for size, just measure the height where they are going, on my Freeman they were 15mm thick I believe BUT bear in mind the strakes had alloy trim with rubber insert over it. What waters are you on ?, if you have locks it can quickly ruin a good varnish job even with fenders if you just have wood alone. Have you looked at the rubber/plastic strakes you can buy now ? they even make some that look like wood...at a cost. |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 15 Feb 2017 : 02:28:34
Two observations here, one is steaming timber does make it wet and is swells up, so marrying a wet steamed piece to a dry cold-bent piece if you plane to suit thickness when it dries it will shrink. So you need to allow to dry it out or wait it out.
2nd is for the bow - that is an extremely tight curve and I suggest you consider bending several thinner pieces, dry them out, and laminate with a good marine glue. You can dry out in the oven at home.
The problem with tight bends is getting the right timber. You need a good 1/4 sawn hardwood, but you will, unless you can find some salvage somewhere, only find sawn through-and-through in timber yards. http://www.hardwooddistributors.org/blog/postings/what-is-the-difference-between-quarter-sawn-rift-sawn-and-plain-sawn-lumber/
When I lived in DF's old part of the woods and had a boat on the Gt Ouse I sourced mahogany in sawn sizes from Ridgeons of Chatteris. That of course was years ago. You might be able to pick up some decent hardwood from a boat yard. Don't buy any old "brown" wood from Travis etc just because it looks brown, check the species and inspect anything you are intending to buy for grain direction because you don't want it splitting as you try to bend it.
Finally living the dream!
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| df |
Posted - 14 Feb 2017 : 21:50:18
When I did a bit I used a length of plastic drainpipe with one end plumbed with spare bits of rubber hose to a pressure cooker and the other end plugged with a rag, an old duvet over the top can help keep the heat in, once it's gone flexible get it on before it cools so work quickly.
A little one ring camping stove under the pressure cooker (fill from a boiling kettle to give you a head start)and wait for an hour (I only did a thin bit so may take much longer) while it cooks.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| jud |
Posted - 14 Feb 2017 : 21:10:41
anyone got advice on diy timber steaming? |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 14 Feb 2017 : 19:28:05
Tbh i have a merchant up the road i total forgot about il try n get up there n price it all up
What sort of size do i need as mine are totaly missing |
| Knighty |
Posted - 14 Feb 2017 : 17:34:01
Doubt whether you will get decent hardwood from Wickes in the lengths you need, best to find a decent timber merchants and get it to the size and profile you need. You don't want many joins. I did my Freeman 23 with 4 mtr lengths in Iroko hardwood. Finished with Epifanes varnish, first few coats thinned out then about another half dozen coats. Hardest bit will be the curve on the bow as it may need steaming to curve around. |
