| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Sal Garfi |
Posted - 09 Sep 2016 : 09:51:29
Hello All,
I plan to line the bedroom on my Norman 22. It's bare fiberglass now, so I want to get it done before Christmas. As most of you will know, the front part of the cabin on a 1970s Norman has a lot(!) of curved surfaces (and windows) so lining it out will not be straight forward. I don't intend to insulate but just line with either Veltrim (sold for campervans) or with a carpet like material from someone like Hawke House (maybe even self adhesive). But saying all of this, can anyone give me their experiences of headlining a similar part of their boat? I'm actually finding the idea of doing the job a bit daunting because of all of the curved surfaces, but any hints and encouragement would be really welcome.
I will probably be doing the job on my own and maybe when the months are quite cold, so maybe cold temperatures might effect the adhesive?
Again, any advice would be welcome!
Sal |
| 14 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| trevork |
Posted - 03 Feb 2017 : 14:28:18
That's the one and the company still exists. Whether they do the same flexible thin stuff I can't tell. Maybe they do?
http://www.floorex.co.uk/
The original stuff was Flotex and they are also still at it!
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| df |
Posted - 02 Feb 2017 : 23:49:17
A long time ago I found a carpet remanant called floorex, it was a floatex rip off and bloody brilliant, thin (good for headroom) fully waterproof and very comfy, only got a few offcuts left but still use it when I can.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
 Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| trevork |
Posted - 02 Feb 2017 : 22:49:03
For interior lining folk used to swear by that flexible, thin pee proof carpet that was very expensive but, then someone found a cheaper copycat version. I can't remember the name of it though. Don't seem to remember much at all these days!
What I do remember is that foam backed is a complete NO anywhere on a boat though! |
| Mad Harold |
Posted - 02 Feb 2017 : 22:34:01
Relining the cabin on Hereward The Wake [Norman 20]],following Cliveshep's advice [mainly] thanks pal.Bought an offcut of felt backed carpet,but found it impossible to get a really clean cut when stuck in situ.OK when laid flat,so lined the hull with this and ordered cord carpet for upper cabin and hope this cuts better.Had to overlap the carpet on the hull because even with a sharp craft knife,it cut very ragged.I said I mainly followed Cliveshep's advice but started carpeting from the back and by the time I remembered "overlaps should be facing forward"I had done one side.It doesn't look too bad,to a blindfolded man on a galloping horse and anyway the bunk cushions cover it.
A couple of observations; I had to do it ln small sections 1,trying to cut a 4m roll of carpet in the confines of a Norman 20 cabin was extremely difficult [couldn't do it outside moored beside a muddy towpath].2,after each section I had to retreat to the cockpit to get some air,even with the windows and door open the fumes from Evostik were making my eyes water.
My thanks to Cliveshep and the other contributers to this subject. |
| tigtog |
Posted - 16 Oct 2016 : 22:02:07
quote:
Originally posted by Sal Garfi
quote:
Originally posted by tigtog
use this stuff dead easy to fit and strtches around the curves.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331626778576?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I thought that this stuff can be got more cheaply? Anyway, how exacty did you manage this stuff, TigTog when you were using it. Did you cut out templates or just apply the glue onto reasonable lengths, apply and stretch it, and trim? I'm concerned about the mess due to glueing the grp and the fabric at the same time, and more importantly, the fumes, since my boat is some distance away from home and I'd have to sleep in her while I'm headlining her. I have also spoken to the suppliers of this type of fabric and glue, and they say that the glue can be very 'fumey' and perhaps harmful until it's set etc.
Any practical hints would be helpful!
Sal
Hello i took the old covering off, removed any loose glue.
measured each piece i needed cut slightly larger, sprayed the fibreglass and starting fitting, sprayed the covering when i needed to.
dead easy to fit and nice and thin.
As clive has said my first norman 20 i used carpetright carpet and contact adhesive, sold it a few years later carpet was fine.
look up my posts for pics.of the norman. |
| Sal Garfi |
Posted - 19 Sep 2016 : 08:50:39
Thanks for all of this Clive. Yes, it sounds a bit garbled but by reading it more than once I'm getting the gist.
This is really helpful and thanks, again, for taking the time to write such a lengthy response - I shall gird my loins!
Sal |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 18 Sep 2016 : 03:23:11
I just cut a lump big enough to fit the area, say a side panel or whatever, slapped on adhesive and offered up the piece and stuck it, leaving all the edges hanging. I'm a bit like the Chinese philosopher's example, taking one step at a time to complete a long journey on the basis that, having considered it, if I don't at least start I have no chance to finish. Having planned as best I can the best sequence to do the job - I just get on and start it! Sort problems as you go. In this case it means sort the edges and laps after.
The principles of carpeting are those of professional paperhanging and work perfectly with the medium.
Where I needed to cut I used a sharp Stanley knife - one of those plastic £1 each ones where you can keep snapping bits off to get to a sharp bit are the best as you can retract the blade with your thumb so you don't sit on it when you wriggle about - and made cuts down corners laps so it would push in. If this leaves unsightly bulges simply cut down the overlaps and peel off the scraps behind them to reduce the thickness, this gives invisible butt joints instead of overlaps.
Having trimmed the edges and the cut corners so they would fit paste a little glue on the back and stick them down making sure the overlaps if any face away from sight and the edges came round the corner maybe 25mm/1 inch. This is where it is not practical to fold a large area around a corner.
The next piece applied the same way but this time cut into the centre of the corner so the resultant edge was out of the sight line - just as you would when papering an internal angled corner. For internal curves make cuts so the carpet can push down around the corner - cut the resultant laps and remove the scraps.
External angles the same way, allow a small lap round the corner if it is a large return where you have to cut, scrape off the foam back to reduce thickness, past and stick, choosing which way to lap to hide the edge. Otherwise simply fold the whole piece round and carry on, making corner cuts top and bottom as necessary to fold round the corner.
Where ANY lap on an external corner would be on show - paste the lap down, cut the next peice to lap, then using a straight edge or by eye cut down through both pieces, peel the top one back a little, remove the strip behind, and stick down for a perfect butt.
For external curved corners you have to cut the corners at angles towards the main piece to get round and that will leave triangular spaces uncovered, so cut and stick a piece behind, paste the cut edges down, then carefully cut a line through the overlap so you cut both pieces, peel back, remove the scrap piece behind the main piece, re-past and push the main piece edge down so it now butts perfectly with your little insert - no overlap.
That technique can be used anywhere you want to avoid laps because they will show. The fluffy element of the carpet pile will hide the join beautifully. But where you have a side panel under a side deck do the side deck first lapping down the side a little, and simply cut the side piece into the corner - the lap will not show.
Reading this it sounds a bit garbled - best read a couple of times to get what I'm trying to describe.
Finally living the dream!
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| Sal Garfi |
Posted - 17 Sep 2016 : 10:46:08
quote:
Originally posted by tigtog
use this stuff dead easy to fit and strtches around the curves.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331626778576?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I thought that this stuff can be got more cheaply? Anyway, how exacty did you manage this stuff, TigTog when you were using it. Did you cut out templates or just apply the glue onto reasonable lengths, apply and stretch it, and trim? I'm concerned about the mess due to glueing the grp and the fabric at the same time, and more importantly, the fumes, since my boat is some distance away from home and I'd have to sleep in her while I'm headlining her. I have also spoken to the suppliers of this type of fabric and glue, and they say that the glue can be very 'fumey' and perhaps harmful until it's set etc.
Any practical hints would be helpful!
Sal |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 17 Sep 2016 : 06:15:40
£105 ??? That is for a 20 square metres. That is an expensive option TigTog.
Carpetright sell by the yard, or metre these days, off the roll, to do a Norman you'd only want 4 or 5 metres off the roll as it's 4m wide. With that it's roof, side panels, bunk sides, toilet wall panel & floor, cabin sole, cockpit sides, and so on. Cost - probably £25 for 20 metres. Cheap, good insulator, thin and flexible foam-backed.
Finally living the dream!
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| tigtog |
Posted - 16 Sep 2016 : 18:43:10
use this stuff dead easy to fit and strtches around the curves.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331626778576?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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| Sal Garfi |
Posted - 10 Sep 2016 : 09:01:56
'Slobberng' sounds great to me. Thanks Clive!
Sal |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 10 Sep 2016 : 03:59:38
I just "slobbered" the Evostick over the grp, and slapped the carpet straight onto it. The alternative adhesive would need the viscosity of the 528, which is a pretty thick contact adhesive, in order to grab the foam backing straight away until it dried.
Sorry I'm not up on modern adhesives for carpets and fabrics But brushing adhesive onto the foam backing at laps for angles etc showed how difficult it was. So I'm glad it worked just applying generally to the grp.
Finally living the dream!
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| Sal Garfi |
Posted - 09 Sep 2016 : 15:34:45
Thanks Clive,
Yes, the glue can be a killer, and I hope I'll be able to stay in my campervan (when it's back from the restorers?) so I can stay out of the cabin while doing the work. But concerning the application of the glue, must both the cloth and cabin sides be glued or can I just slobber glue all over the GRP. When looking at YouTube videos about this, people seem to state categorically that both the cloth and cabin sides have to have glue applied to them. As you'll know there ain't much space in a narrow beam cruiser so putting glue also on the cloth, while working indoors in the winter, would be a right pain in the bottom!
Sal |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 09 Sep 2016 : 13:16:06
I have had great sucess on several boats using the very cheapest foam-backed cord carpet. The advantage of the cheapest is two-fold, (1) it is cheap, but (2) because it is cheap it is also thin, and therefore drapes over weird shapes like boat cabins very well.
It is very similar to that no doubt outrageously expensive similar stuff they line light aircraft cabins with which gave me the idea years ago.
I just bought loads of it, and a gallon can of Evostik 538 impact adhesive and brushed on the glue and bedded the carpet into it wet. Where I had to cut for curves I simply lapped so the edge was out of sight and pressed the overlap down into the glue or simply brushed glue onto the back of the lap.
It made such a simple job of a complicated problem and looked really good afterwards bearing in mind the simple rule don't have a cut edge looking at you.
Someone was talking about a non-toxic-solvent type adhesive and really Evostik is a killer in a confined space, so if you can find an adhesive that "grabs" in the same way without the fumes that is the key - otherwise large fans and an effective mask or breathing gear in a cabin.
Finally living the dream!
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