| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 18 Aug 2016 : 19:02:53
Can anyone give me the water hight with a outbord
And a stern drive please
On n norman 23 mk 2 |
| 12 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 28 Aug 2016 : 01:52:08
Looks like that is what you'll be using then! Good luck, at least you can sell the PRM.
Also you'll need to sort out the UJ couplngs to connect it to the engine and allow it to tilt or steer.
Finally living the dream!
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| Canveysteve |
Posted - 27 Aug 2016 : 19:47:54
To late already got it only just seen the messaged !
Have the compleet set up stern plate steering gear cable |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 24 Aug 2016 : 10:53:57
Walk away - it is useless for your purpose, too short, no mounting plate,steering swivel etc.
Don't know if any of the following may help?
http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/list/3551/engines-and-outboards.html?keyword=enfield+z+drive+for+sale
http://www.chertseymeadsmarine.co.uk/enfield-drives/
http://www.sterndrives.co.uk/
http://www.for-sale.co.uk/stern-drive
And for a cheap jet-drive - if you can find an impeller:
http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/Stern-Drive-for-sale/pp-90g/144249
Finally living the dream!
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| df |
Posted - 24 Aug 2016 : 08:13:28
That's a stubby looking thing and if it doesn't have the sternplate to fix to it's worthless.
I've never seen one like it so probably a bu55er to get parts for, in which case you will have an unsellable boat again, cheapest outdrive option is probably an enfield 130, I sem to recall about 27" top of casing to bottom of skeg but don't remember shaft to shaft dimensions.
I'd avoid that one.
Just to rub it in I sold a load of enfield 130 bits including complete leg and several props earlier this year, there was stern plates/swivel hubs/the lot, sorry and all that.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 24 Aug 2016 : 07:17:29
https://instagram.com/p/BJeyXSFjzw2/![]() |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 24 Aug 2016 : 07:16:19
https://instagram.com/p/BJeyXSFjzw2/
Any ideas the base section turns 360 |
| Canveysteve |
Posted - 24 Aug 2016 : 07:12:42
Looks like i foud a z drive !
Next question what the distance between the input shaft and prop center as this on im looking at sees short on the leg meshurs 17" between the to shafts ? Also ne to find out what it is !
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| cliveshep |
Posted - 19 Aug 2016 : 14:23:05
Well done for the Z-drive decision. Sensible.
If you know roughly what engine/drive option you can go hunt out a Norman with a similar installation and measure it, otherwise you'll either take a guess or launch - trim, measure, haul out again and paint it.
If I had to take an educated guess I'd say you'll wet about 150mm (6") of the hull sides aft so could paint antifoul say 8 inches up all the way round. You can ballast later to trim to the line leaving a couple of inches exposed of antifoul plus say another 2 inches for a coloured boot topping (what landies call plimsoll line).
You'll be safe with those dimensions.
Don't bother to antifoul the bottom at all - "if the sun can't see it weed don't grow on it" is the principle. Fouling occurs at waterline down until the turn of the bilge, or in the case of a planing hull down to the first chine, so you can save loads of dosh by not painting the bottom. Actually - you could simply paint the anti-foul area with black gloss paint because it isn't hard to scrub that little strip clean with a half decent deck-scrubber. your call if economy is your watchword. Another alternative is bitumen paint but you'll need to mask the lines because it's a bitch to remove as it stains.
You cannot paint over it either as it bleeds through but it is a good antifoul - narrow boats used only that all the time.
Finally living the dream!
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| Canveysteve |
Posted - 19 Aug 2016 : 06:37:33
Yes looking to go z drive , am about to paint the hull so was wondering water hightfor anti foul |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 19 Aug 2016 : 00:44:01
Hi, not quite sure what is in your mind here. The Norman is a longshaft boat outboard-wise, so that the anti cavitation plate - the horizontal plate above the propellor on outboard (or outdrive) should be at or slightly lower than the bottom of the hull, thus ensuring a clear "swim" of water to the propeller.
The prop will always be in the water with a longshaft motor. The only depth figure I recall related to draught - A Norman 20 I stuck a Ford crossflow into coupled to an Enfield 130 drew 3ft 2" from skeg to waterline. But other types of boats with other arrangements would be different.
I'm guessing you have something draining over the side - maybe a gas locker drain - and you want to make sure it is above water-line?
The cockpit seats are above the water-line if that is any help but really the amount of boat in the water is dependant on how much weight you stick in it and where you put the weight.
If you are going for the outdrive option it is governed by the minimum height of the engine in the boat which controls the height of the outdrive or if youl ike how far the thing sticks down in the water which with Enfields is always deep enough for the anti-cav plate but might be a tad too deep for canal work. You need to measure everything carefully.
Remember - once machinery and tanks etc are fitted, then you add weight to trim the boat, ballast in lockers/bilges etc to push the boat to the desired attitude.
Finally living the dream!
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| Canveysteve |
Posted - 18 Aug 2016 : 21:00:00
Any idea of meshurment ?? |
| trevork |
Posted - 18 Aug 2016 : 19:30:23
With a stern drive I seem to recall the water level being ideal at halfway up the rubber gaiter! |
