| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Landor |
Posted - 27 Oct 2015 : 18:46:36
Hi,
Does anyone have a trailer they want rid of that will take a Norman 20?
Thanks  |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Landor |
Posted - 23 Mar 2016 : 21:58:37
I just realised that I never got back to this post.
I eventually got a decent trailer (Hallmark). My N20 sits on it great and handled the 160 mile transportation journey with ease.
The trailer has a swinging section at the back which is a bit weird but the trailer is solid. |
| KK |
Posted - 27 Nov 2015 : 12:09:07
We've now got our boat home. We bought a Nicholson trailer which has a front set of six double rollers, three on each side, and a back set of eight double rollers, four on each side.
There are no other supports on the trailer apart from a couple of vee-shaped rubber-covered metal bars to support the front, and a large black roller on which the front of the keel sits. We were told we wouldn't need side rails/bars and indeed the boat seems to sit well on this. We were advised where to place the boat in relation to the axle (single) and we towed it for about 150 miles.
We checked the towing limit for the weight of our car and the combined weight of the trailer and the boat (estimated) to make sure we weren't going to exceed it. It's a bit heavier than our caravan but towed remarkably well with no wagging, although we kept to a maximum of 55mph, more usually 50mph. It worried me because I could see it bouncing a bit but apparently it was the trailer and boat bouncing together, not the boat bouncing on the trailer!
Not using ratchet straps so far for the simple reason we have none, but another boating friend (yachts rather than canals) has said ratchet straps can crush a boat. We used rope at the two rear corners and the winch strap at the front with a rope over the bows. Does this sound okay?!
I'm terrified we might damage the hull, so reassuring to know it's a fairly strong hull, thank you to whoever said that. Although we've been on the canals several times, we're new to bringing a boat home with a view to trailering. You might hear a lot from me! |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 25 Nov 2015 : 01:47:58
It is hard to "kill a hull" by damage as most can be repaired. The two lines you refer to stiffen the flat sections of the hull and act as "spray-rails" at speed - something few Normans ever manage in their day-to-day lives on canals. They in turn are stiffened by laterals or a form of rib about 100 xs 25mm flat glassed in from hog to chine (at about 900mm centres from memory) down the hull. So if you had something under those that is safest for the hull.
Norman hulls were designed to be driven at speed so they are a whole lot tougher than say Dawncraft hulls that spent their lives pottering about from place to place on canals.
Have a look at your boat, see if there are spider-web cracks around the supports, if not you should be safe. Only a launch and inspect will show for sure.
I posted an idiot guide to glass fibre repairs that might help your thinking on that subject should you need it.
.
Finally living the dream!
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| sabnor |
Posted - 21 Nov 2015 : 12:00:56
There's the keel, then two lines going along the hull, then you have the edge where the vertical side of the boat starts.
The support is on the second line - looks like 20-30cm from the edge.
I also noticed the hull is painted underneath, and that could hide fixes.
The owner claims he hasn't noticed any damages, but...
Let's say there are damages from transport - will that be the death of the hull, or is it something worth fixing without breaking the bank?
To me it looks used, but ok - but I know my own limitations.
I have som pictures if you're willing to take a look for me.
If I buy the boat it will be without the trailer, so I'll get a new suited right for this boat.
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| cliveshep |
Posted - 21 Nov 2015 : 01:02:03
Dependant on road quality - i,e, bumps - on it's Winter/Spring journeys and if the hull is supported near the sides - stronger - it could be perfectly fine. Correctly, the weight should sit on the keel with side bunks or rollers providing stability but a Norman's chines are pretty stiff too although there is no internal stiffening glassed in there.
Norman chines are very sharp, i.e. the lay-up is folded tightly which does mean they are vulnerable to shock damage and I have had one 20 in before that had a 600mm split right along the chine from impact damage. Supporting the hull weight along the angle does work, without bounces, supporting it on the bottom is dangerous, and a big bounce gives shock that can cause damage.
Inspect very closely before buying and modify the trailer to add central beam and rollers.
Finally living the dream!
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| sabnor |
Posted - 19 Nov 2015 : 21:15:09
Hi,
I'm considering buying a Norman 20, and have some questions about trailer transportation.
I noticed on the pictures of the boat that it rests on the hull sides (slides, not rollers) and the keel does not touch the bottom support.
The boat has only been transported for very short distances each winter, but still when reading this thread I wonder if this could have hurt the hull at all.
I would appreciate if any of you could share some of your experience here.
Thanks :) |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 15 Nov 2015 : 06:19:54
I've had two 20's and an 18.5 over the years but I have to say that with engines(s) and gear and maybe a little water and fuel I was glad of my 4 x 4's to tow. Normans sit quite happily on their keels and bunks or side rollers just stop them falling sideways.
I do advise twin axle trailers for stability and ease of towing though, although in your case probably too late as you have got a break-back already. I doubt anything less than a decent sized 1800 upwards would have the grunt to handle one and of course the kerbside weight might be insufficient as well. It's launch and recovery on slippery slips that will pose the greatest challenges and I've seen more than one outfit gracefully launch itself - car, boat and trailer into the 'oggin.
Finally living the dream!
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| Landor |
Posted - 13 Nov 2015 : 07:42:13
Thank you everyone!
I'm sorry I couldn't reply sooner. It seems work is taking over my life at the minute.
I managed to get an Indespension Hallmark trailer. It's in decent shape but needs some attention to the brakes (new cables etc.)
It has the rollers and has a tilting mechanism at the rear to help with launching etc.
Good reminder about the ratchet straps 
I'm getting her out of the water in the next couple of weeks and getting her home for winter to work on her. I've got lots of trees around her so just need a good canvas cover and I can crack on with stuff. I'll post some photos as I'm a novice and will need some tips and advice.
Thanks again |
| Deano |
Posted - 12 Nov 2015 : 19:56:40
quote:
Originally posted by KK
Thanks, all, for advice and reassurance. Much appreciated. Interestingly, the old brochuures on this site state that a Norman 20 can be pulled by the family car...and surely cars have come on a bit since then?!
But, so has road traffic law.
I don't know the full ins and outs of the towing regulations, but I would imagine a reasonable estate would be within the weight limits to tow a lightly loaded Norman 20. Volvo or the such. I wouldn't be tackling it in a Hilman Hunter any time soon though!!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| KK |
Posted - 10 Nov 2015 : 21:35:24
Thanks, all, for advice and reassurance. Much appreciated. Interestingly, the old brochuures on this site state that a Norman 20 can be pulled by the family car...and surely cars have come on a bit since then?! |
| Deano |
Posted - 09 Nov 2015 : 21:31:04
When lashing down with the straps, consider fore and aft movement more than up and down.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 32 "Liberty"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| Knighty |
Posted - 09 Nov 2015 : 16:10:00
All the weight is taken on the keel which is very strong by the keel rollers, all the side rollers do is support the hull, very little weight at all on those rollers so I shouldn't worry too much. First time you put the boat on the trailer you will need to adjust all the side rollers to get her evenly balanced and supported then you will see how little weight is on those rollers.
Get yourself a couple of decent ratchet straps to hold the boat on the trailer |
| KK |
Posted - 09 Nov 2015 : 13:14:33
Many thanks. That's reassuring. We're buying a new, braked trailer. No boards but a large number or rollers and the guy we're buying from indicated each roller would be applying only 32kgs of pressure and he said this won't stress the hull. This is all based on the assumption the boat weighs in at around 900kgs,with gas removed but engine left on.
Any tips/advice gratefully received! |
| Knighty |
Posted - 08 Nov 2015 : 17:39:16
I trailered my 20 twice a year, not very far mind but you wont have any problems at all. Was quite easy to launch and retrieve. My trailer which I sold with the boat had keel rollers and boarded sides.
Just make sure you stay legal and get a trailer with brakes, so many advertised where the brakes have been disconnected.
I do miss not being able to bring a boat home and working on it on the drive over winter.
[URL=http://s34.photobucket.com/user/STRUMMERD/media/DSCF0392.jpg.html] [/URL]
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| KK |
Posted - 08 Nov 2015 : 15:08:54
No, sorry, but I'm replying because it's something we're looking into as well, and have decided to buy new, I think.
Our plan is to keep the boat at home and target specific canals during the year. My query on this subject is how safe is it to trailer a Norman 20 and would the hull be stressed to the point of cracking? |
