| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| philihun |
Posted - 07 Mar 2015 : 18:07:56
Hi,all,at the moment I am running my 15 hp 4 stroke using the original 13 litre can with the old style push and twist tank connection and the push and click type to the engine. Tried buying a identical set up to double my range,ie side by side tanks and then unplug the empty and plug in to full tank but cannot find any. Is it easy enough to buy a new plastic 22 litre tank and convert to suit my set up, or should I keep looking for like for like.Regards Phil Hunt
pr hunt |
| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| philihun |
Posted - 01 Apr 2015 : 18:35:11
Hi all, Update on the fuel tanks. After measuring up the wooden flap to gain access to the fuel on my 27, I would not have been able to get a 22 or 26 plastic tank in or out without plastic surgery. Went on E bay yesterday and won a bid for an identical Honda 13L tank with same connection as mine. Result I think as 2x3 beats 1 x6 for handling, refills etc. I know it's getting to sound like Malc from the old forum but I promise I will buck up
pr hunt |
| flojim123 |
Posted - 25 Mar 2015 : 07:43:41
Hi be careful of metal tanks sparks can cause explosions always fill tanks on the bank outside the boat |
| philihun |
Posted - 10 Mar 2015 : 20:09:36
Cheers ill stick with this thread.
pr hunt |
| df |
Posted - 10 Mar 2015 : 19:23:16
As long as you know what the threads are on the fittings you can get both parts of the bayonet fittings no problem so you have matching tanks and change over while on the move, just make sure you get all the same size though as there are variations.
I think yamaha and mariner use the same type of clip-on fittings, I seem to remember omc(evinrude/johnson) use a different size clip-on fitting, older mercury use two different sizes of push/twist fittings, no idea about honda.
I have a feeling the japs use bsp threads and the yanks use npt threads.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| philihun |
Posted - 10 Mar 2015 : 18:56:27
Hi Florian, I got my mate out to look at my system as I had probs with starting ie engine cutting out etc. His diagnosis in some kind of order was. (A) 2 hours of slow running in a Marina during a winter week will not charge an electric toothbrush up from a small outboard. (B) Petrol does go stale if not used and create gremlins in the system. (C) open the tank vent on starting and close on finishing. (D) There are 100 yr old motor bikes running on the original metal tank. Il have plastic and metal once I sort the connections out.
pr hunt |
| Florian |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 21:26:01
Hello,
I'm interested in how to solve the problem of condensate contaminating the petrol when it is stored in a metal tank. I am thinking that an additive may be required at intervals to ensure efficient flow through the carburettor. Would you agree? I've had a look at my tank and it appears new so I wouldn't want to replace it with plastic unless Forum members advised otherwise - I'd be interested in what your thoughts. Best Wishes,
Florian.
florian |
| philihun |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 20:04:48
Cheers mate, Im doing SYBC at Heck to Ripon as a novice maiden long voyage around easter time. Dates don't matter as I am retired but the search for Petrol is a constant thread on this forum. Im thinking 6 gallons alongside the Honda 15 outboard and 2 gallons outside in a box on top of the rear cabin,(Norman 27). Im hoping for aout 20 hrs cruising and a bit of a reserve. Does this sound feasible. Regards Phil Hunt.
pr hunt |
| Steve T |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 18:35:44
Hi
Yep, really easy. Just make sure you buy the correct termination coupler for your engine when you get the new fuel/primer line.
I changed my old metal 2 gallon tank (Mercury 15hp 4 stroke) to a new plastic 22 litre with new line.
Too heavy to handle backwards n forwards to the filling station now, but range doubled and no more condensation in the tank to "goo" up the carb.
Good luck
Steve |
