| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Owen |
Posted - 10 Apr 2013 : 21:44:38
Hi all,
I'm getting my 18.5 norman ready for a summer on loch earn after being sat up on a trailer for a few years. It needs some obvious work inside due to water ingress mainly, a bilge pump fitted etc but what I'm wondering is how high the hull paintwork and anti fouling should be up my list.
It's a bit flakey and could prob do with a complete strip back and redo with gel coat I assume but isn't terrible either. Planning this first year to get it on the water so if it floats just do what's required to keep it on the surface then sort the hull next year.
Any thoughts on priorities generally or as I plan above appreciated.
Currently wearing out the search function on the site which has answered loads of questions already so thanks for that too! |
| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| df |
Posted - 16 Apr 2013 : 19:55:48
You can get a 3 way switch purposefully designed for this use with fuse holder built in, I have one on my engine bay bilge pump, mine is a rocker switch with square surround (rule I think the make is).
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| Owen |
Posted - 16 Apr 2013 : 19:45:39
Great Peter, many thanks. I suspect its a partially rotted or bunged up drain hole as you suggest. The floor in the cabin is solid plastic so if I can get it to the rear then saves me drilling holes in the floor too.
Any opinions on the three way switch proposal?
Thanks! |
| Peter Walker |
Posted - 15 Apr 2013 : 21:55:16
What you want are:
Limber hole
One of a series of holes made in the frames (or floors) where they meet keel, hog, or perhaps keelson so that water can drain aft to the bilge-pump
If you were a warship you might be wanting watertight bulkheads!! but most small ships are better with limber holes to drain.
The only downside is that limber holes on the cheap usually consist of drilled hole through the base of the bulkhead, then of course the water gets into the plywood and after a few years it rots. Purpose designed holes should have the sides of the hole sealed with the fibreglass over the edge, or even epoxy.
When I fit new bulkheads in my 22 next year I am planning to leave to leave a gap of 1" - 2" width and about 1" height at the lowest point under the door. When I glass in the bulkhead I will glass around the cut edge of the plywood.
Which is a very long winded way of saying, poke that hole !!!
Norman 22 on the river Avon, Warwickshire |
| Owen |
Posted - 15 Apr 2013 : 21:06:32
Evening all,
Bilge pump planning!
Advice seems to recommend 2 pumps for redundancy with the higher powered one being higher up on a float switch with a lower powered one for regular use further down but not right in the bottom in case it gets blocked up with debris.
On a budget however......and will be close to the edge of a loch so thinking of one 500gph rule pump with a float switch on a 3 way main switch (auto, on and off) connected to a 100Ah battery. Thinking of the 3 way so I can put on auto during the week as using boat at weekends only.Maybe less critical once I get a canopy that doesn't leak so much :)
4" tall sounds close to the total space under deck near the transom - anyone know the headroom there on a 18.5? I can measure at weekend so just if anyone knows.
Any advice appreciated.
Also if the cabin and back deck bilges should be separate or connected through the bulkhead.
Thanks. |
| Owen |
Posted - 11 Apr 2013 : 20:19:13
Cheers DF.
First job is get the water out and find/fix leaks.
Another question - under the cabin door with the rear deck removed it is solid, apart from what could be a drainage hole....had a wee poke but not sure if it is. Didn't poke too much in case the rear deck and cabin bilges are supposed to be separate rather than drainage holes joining the two areas. I've seen a few threads about people poking wire into locker drainage holes but different models so not sure.....
Thanks. |
| df |
Posted - 11 Apr 2013 : 18:50:41
Johnson pumps are ok but avoid the solid state switches, I've had 2 pack up and drain the batteries with a running pump, good old fashioned float switches are fine.
As Deano says priority no.1 is to use the boat and enjoy it, make a further list of priorities as you use it, as long as the motor is reliable for loch use as it'll be a long cold swim ashore.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| Owen |
Posted - 11 Apr 2013 : 18:01:20
Thanks Dean, now it's advice not laziness as an excuse.....:)
peek and plea pump both bought and ready for the off. Decision still to be made on bilge pump/s (right back at the stern and in front bow compartment reading other threads) and one or more batteries.
Any advice incl makes - rule and Lucas look contenders - let me know.
Thanks again. |
| Deano |
Posted - 10 Apr 2013 : 22:21:26
Your biggest priority this year it to get out on the boat and enjoy it.
Do not embark on any major projects, if you plan to keep it in the water all year, some antifoul may be a good plan. Other then that, make it comfy and watertight and enjoy the summer.
After using the boat for a year you will have a better idea what is a priority.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
