|
Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!
|
| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| mikeb |
Posted - 06 Jan 2013 : 01:39:26
I've owned this boat for 6 months now, just got it out of the water to do a few jobs/tidying up over the winter (horrible feeling it'll turn into a full on restoration). Finally got round to taking some photo's, so here they are, along with a load of questions. Answers, comments and suggestions (preferably positive ones!) are most welcome.
Bit worried about this u bolt - it seems to be pulling out. Hoping that there are some nuts on the inside of the hull?
Is this metal plate on the transom 'normal'? Not sure what is lurking behind it yet, or how sound the transom is.
Another of the transom, by the outboard well. Is that join original, or has the transom previously been repaired?
Top of the bench seat where it meets the transom. Should they be bonded together?
The sides appear to be bonded to the transom
Under the cockpit floor.
Can anyone identify this, it's glassed onto the hull inside one of the lockers. There was a coax cable coming out the top, but it's been chopped right off. My guess is that it's an internally mounted echo sounder transducer as it doesn't go right through the hull to the outside.
There are quite a few gouges, scuffs and scrapes on the outside of the hull, can I just use gel coat filler or something else?
Does the teleflex helm need to be this deep? It looks a bit unnecessary, and wastes space.
Wiring could be (will be) improved!
The cabin floor sags a lot (a good inch or so) just behind the bulkhead, and in front of the galley area. It looks like someones tried to brace it in the past with that baton that was screwed to the bulkhead below the door. Not sure how is best to tackle this? I'd like to get the cabin floor up to inspect underneath, but it appears to be part of a one piece molding with the cabin benches. Looks like I'll need to cut it out, or is there another way?
Cabin roof and sides have quite a lot of bolt heads and wiring for stuff that's mounted on the outside. All looks a bit unsightly.
Most of the windows seem to leak a bit, the side ones are terrible.
Cabin bench seat molding doesn't appear to be very well fixed to the hull. Is this normal/correct, or should I be worried? Is the interior molding structural at all?
I'll try and update this thread with my progress and endless questions!
|
| 3 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 06 Jan 2013 : 14:21:48
The ali angle covered the join angle of topsides/motor well and transom, so it covered the gap, and was "pop" riveted down. Look at the 4th and 5th pics you posted - that was the angle it covered, down the side, across the top of the transom and up the other side.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
| mikeb |
Posted - 06 Jan 2013 : 10:44:54
Thanks Clive, I'd already seen your restoration thread on the other forum, which was very helpful.
I already have a transom mounted echo sounder, so the one pictured (which is in the starboard locker is redundant). Yes, I do intend to use the boat at sea, and although missing in the pictures, it has a 60hp outboard (which ran rather well until attempted thieves dropped it in the river, hopefully it will still be reliable). But that is a lot of weight to have hanging off a rotten transom, hence my concern!
I can't quite follow your description of where the original angled aluminium pieces went on the transom, don't suppose anyone has any close up photo's of that?
So I will need to cut out the entire cabin floor to find out what's going on beneath (clearly something supporting it is rotten)? Can I replace the floor with removable plywood, rather than glassing the original back in? At least that way it would make future inspection/repair work easier. |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 06 Jan 2013 : 08:51:58
Loadsa questions!!!
I'll try, but go look at the link I posted in "a boat but not a boat" as I dealt with structural issues in that link with loads of pics so should help you.
The tube bonded in can be hacked out - it was for an echo sounder transducer, best location if you want to fit one (going to sea??)is mid hull close to keel line, so starboard locker under galley or just aft of bulkhead in the cockpit locker. It should look through untroubled water if possible.
The cockpit lockers sides should be glassed in to hull and up transom as they stiffen the transom - the boat was rated at 100hp outboard originally. The tops were either fixed to a batten glassed into the hull sides or could be glassed in from the top only - they offer little in the way of structural integrity to the hull but need to be strong enough for a man to walk or sit on. The plate you now have probably stiffens up a rotten transom - there is a post somewhere dealing with the "how to's" for Norman transoms, about 1 year or more ago I think. It should have a pieces of aluminium angle trimming the joint between rear deck/motor well moulding and the hull at the transom but your looks like someone has changed the rear deck - they never to my knowledge EVER overhung the motor well sides so maybe someone has already removed the motor well moulding and the cockpit lockers and re-done the transom? If not and looking at what you have got it wouldn't be that hard to do so. The missing angle was supposed to seal the joint from water ingress - clearly on yours that isn't happening.
You can build a sloping console into the cockpit for helm and it doesn't take away any room at all if you intend to use the "plus 4" berth option. Look on the link. I've done it on 3 Norman 20's very successfully now.It leaves the heads uncluttered and they are very small anyway!
The bow eye needs removing and a bigger plate fitted inside, they originally got bolted through a wooden block and glassed over, sometimes the nut head pulls through the block a bit like yours.
Dings and scrapes?? Looking at the bow eye pic with scratches with red paint showing through - it looks as though it is already painted?? Epoxy filler, sand, and anti-foul below water line, spray with a can of car acrylic over any small filled areas above?
Edit - forgot the cabin floor bit - if the bulkhead between doors has rotted then so has the original batten stiffening the end of the floor so start by looking at it. If it is as I suspect rotten at the bottom cut it out and fit a new piece under the floor but the floor will always be a bit "bouncy" in the middle. Glass it all back in of course. Sorting the windows out will stop water getting under that section anyway.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
|
|
|
© N.B.A.S. 2020 |
 |
|
|
