| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| consumedbynature |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 21:24:32
Hi all,
Have fancied a bit of a manageable project all winter due to boat withdrawl. I fancied buying a Norman 23 but couldn't find the right boat at the right price. I've just bought a Shetland Black Hawk with a 60hp as a bit of a project so will be asking lots of questions over the next few weeks to try and gain from all of your wisdom.
I bought a Silverline polisher (looks like an angle grinder) and started to polish the gel coat today with T-cut (only using the slowest speed). I applied the T-cut by hand and used a lambs wool bonnet to polish off. All was well until I cleaned the bonnet after it became dirty and spin dried using the polisher on a high speed. Once I tried using the bonnet again (on the lowest speed) when it was damp the polisher made a mess of the gel coat by actually dulling it again and wet gelcoat/Tcut mix dirtied the bonnet.
I had to finish the polishing by hand using stockinette. The deeper scratches in the hull (similar to marks on cars that have been keyed) were still highly visible.
Can anyone please give me tips on what to use and how to remove the deeper scratches from my green gelcoat please.
Thanks
Billy
Shetland 640 - Jessica Marie - Worcestershire Avon |
| 13 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Knighty |
Posted - 18 Apr 2012 : 13:42:19
Weather was sort of kind for me today as the boat is going to local marina to get the outboard serviced later today ready for launching on Saturday hopefully.
It does grieve me pay someone to do it but was a new outboard last year and needs the service book stamped for the warranty. Forecast was for heavy rain most of the day around Worcestershire but woke up to a pleasant day and managed to machine polish the boat with Mer and a coat of Harly wax on the hull, great wax for the money. Then the heavens opened with torrential rain around 1pm but was inside and finished with a bacon butty by then 
Roll on Saturday 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARLY-WAX-car-polish-PURE-NO-1-YELLOW-CARNAUBA-WAX-/370183022907?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item5630a0a93b |
| joe |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 21:30:43
start with G3 then G10 to smooth the swirlies,below is the farecla guide
Wet boat and mop and keep it wet
Working with a Polisher
Polishing machines will make the compounding application much faster and will also give a better finish. These can be hired from either a tool hire shop or possibly a boatyard. Do ensure that the machine is suitable for polishing i.e. not a grinder, as the speed required to polish is very important. Approximately 1800 RPM free running is the optimum speed but certainly no faster than 2000 RPM.
A small amount of compound is picked up on a clean cloth, the lid replaced and the work area lightly dabbed. Most people use too much. Only a little is needed to do the job; any excess flies out and has to be cleaned up afterwards.
For best results use a damp foam compounding head (Advanced G Mop). Before use soak the compounding head in clean water to ensure the water is inside the foam. Spin off the excess water in a bucket or bin. Position the foam compounding head onto the compound and gently move the machine. This action spreads the compound on both the surface and the compounding head.
Start the machine and move it steadily backwards and forwards over the gelcoat. The compounding head should be held at a slight angle to the surface; at between five and ten degrees.
When all the sanding marks have been removed and gloss begins to show through, ease off the pressure. You can add more water to the surface without any more compound to give the best gloss. Final gloss and blending in is obtained by running the machine quickly and lightly over the whole area, using the flat face of the compounding head and less pressure.
Wipe away any residue and buff with a soft, dry cloth.
On dark colours, it may be necessary to follow with an application of G10 Extra Fine Grade Liquid with an Advanced G mop Polishing Foam. The same instructions for use apply.
Protecting the surface
To protect the work you have done it would be advisable to put on a coating of wax. Protecting gelcoats and painted hull surfaces against dirt, oil and extreme climatic conditions not only enhances the appearance, but prolongs the life. A non-polymer, non-silicone wax polish is easy to apply and causes no problems should any repairs be required.
__________________
"It was the crew's fault"
|
| Deano |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 21:30:32
I use International Premium Polish Protection and then go over it with UV Protecting Sealer as I picked a few bottles up at a good price, but anything with a wax base is good. The more wax the better.
Both of those products are hand applied with a cloth and the polish protection is buffed off, the UV sealer is just left.
I did the hull of my boat with an electric polisher and G6, G3, polish/wax/UV seal. That took 3 days on the slip way. It won't surprise you that my arms ached a little afterwards. @£$%^%$£@!!!! did they ache. Then the wife asked if I was going to do the topsides!!! Thats how the polisher got broken!!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| Steve T |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 21:30:10
Hi Billy
If you have patience, then pure honey wax is brilliant.
Apply using two finger tips in small (50mm) overlapping circles on an area of about a square metre at a time, and immediatley buff off with stockinette, then apply second coat the same way and leave to haze off to a whitish finish, then buff off as before.
Repeat process twice (at least) to get a good protective finish.
If you are really patient (or "the crew" volunteers to help), then 6 pairs of applications will leave a surface not much will stick to.
Don't drop the applicating sponge (comes in the tin) - it will attract everything abrasive in a moment, and this will then leave 50mm circles all over your new wax.
Deep breath - a 23 foot boat deck can take three days to do fully.
Cheers
Steve
|
| consumedbynature |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 20:36:43
Thanks for the replies. What wax would you reccommend and how should I apply?
Regards
Billy
Shetland 640 - Jessica Marie - Worcestershire Avon |
| Deano |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 17:42:33
Consider using a wax to seal it after polishing. Mer is just another polish and will not seal the surface as well as a true wax. You want to preserve the fruits of your labours for as long as possible. You don't want to have to start all over again in 6 months !!!
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| Steve T |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 11:05:53
Hi
Be careful with the speed of the polisher and the pressure you apply to the gelcoat.
Farecla products are superb, but they are more than harsh enough to melt the gelcoat with a foam pad if you push hard when on high speed.
Don't be tempted to "dig" the edge of the mop into the gel hard to get a single scratch out, once you have raised the temperature of the gel it will discolour brownish and you won't get that out!!
It happens very quickly once it starts, so slow and steady is the key!!
Cheers
Steve
|
| Stan the Man |
Posted - 22 Feb 2012 : 06:26:11
consumed by nature
Like yourself I started with Tcut in the totally mistaken belief that it was "only like a car body after all". Having been instructed in the error of my ways and that Farecla was the canine's genitalia in this regard, I sold my wife into slavery to finance the purchase. I will not pretend that I've used it extensively but after fitting the redundant holes in my helm console with gelcoat filler. successively fine grades of wet and dry were followed with a foam pad polish with Farecla and I got an excellent (well it is to my eye) finish. It does also seem to go a long way and I intend using it to polish the entire boat when the finer weather arrives, followed with a couple of coTs of Mer.
Regards, Stan |
| consumedbynature |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 23:04:00
Just bought a 1ltr tub of Farecla G3 paste and the G3 mop sponge for £34. Ouch! Hope its worth it
Thanks for the advice
Billy
Shetland 640 - Jessica Marie - Worcestershire Avon |
| Deano |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 22:02:32
Ditch the lamb for polishing. Get a foam pad and some Farécla G3 compound. (You could get away with T-Cut at a pinch, depends how bad the GRP is)
Watch the video on you tube and then have another go.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A56acHlFQ8
Finish off with a good wax polish/sealant applied by hand and buff of with your dried off lamby.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| consumedbynature |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 22:01:10
Thanks for the advice. My intention is to finish off with Mer polish. I think I'll try and get some Farecla polish as stated. Is it ok to apply by hand then buff off with my polisher?
Thanks
Billy
Shetland 640 - Jessica Marie - Worcestershire Avon |
| Knighty |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 21:53:17
Hi Billy, it will be hard to remove deep scratches from gel coat but a good polish like Autoglym Super resin polish gives a good shine with the right pads on the polisher. As above T-cut is way too harsh for gel coat unless you have a stuborn mark and even then only with a damp cloth.
I have the same polisher but the sponge pads that came with it were pants and fall apart so worth investing in a couple of decent pads.
Once over before the polish with Maguires Scratch X will get rid of small scratches and swirls and not too abrasive.
You can get proper boaty polishes at a price but i just carried over what works on my cars and it did a good job.
|
| Lester Mayo |
Posted - 21 Feb 2012 : 21:48:31
Dont use T cut its not for boats as it leaves a residue on the surface. You have the correct machine for the job but dont use it on high speed. I have used Farecla G3 paste to good effect this is a cutting compound so you have to finish with a polish/sealer.
Don't take life too serious, it's not permanent |
