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| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| apache |
Posted - 16 Jan 2012 : 21:12:26
Hi everybody. My 20 is "running" with a Honda BF75 of an uncertain age together with an uncertain reliability. I am told, quite bluntly, that it is most likely past it sell by, or "knackered" (3 repairers have told me this). I would love to go for an electric start unit but Due to budget restrictions I am having to go for a non-electric starting engine :(
My question is that most engines I see are tiller operated and I am very curious as to whether these can be adapted for use using the boats wheel or whether I need to be looking at an engine specifically designed to be used with the wheel.
Thanks for the hoped for advice.
Bob |
| 3 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| apache |
Posted - 17 Jan 2012 : 17:48:24
Thanks guys, some really good info coming thro'. I have all the cables etc already as the existing engine IS a helm steerer. I think I will persevere with a good service not least with a new impeller as the water stream seems a little weak. And yes, my 75 is a unit with points and IS blue and white, just not sure of its age. The engine is currently residing in the workshop and definitely will need a new prop due to a collision with a wheelie bin, obviously it didnt move on impact so the prop took the full force as did the rudder. Result, a prop which is dented, chipped and generally, I would say, useless. So of course this leads to another question, a recommendation for a new prop. Steel or plastic? Any where you would recommend I go? And what does everyone think of "Ruddersafe". Would you recommend a cage around the prop or would this reduce the force of the water stream from the prop.
Too many questions I know but.....!
Cheers. Bob
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| wisdom |
Posted - 17 Jan 2012 : 12:06:08
I have a BF75 on my Norman 20.
Had no trouble at all with it(Its a very early one blue and white with points) just bring it home and service it every winter and it pushes us along well on the canal.
Spares are fairly easy to come by.
So it may not be totally knackered just old.I have a complete engine for spares should i need any and that was only £50.00 |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 17 Jan 2012 : 10:02:48
Most modern engines can be set up with remote controls, you buy a fittings kit and the control box - single or twin lever dependant on finances - and cables and generally remove the tiller. BUT do allow long enough cables for engine movement and tilting. It is considered best that the cables have a complete loop at the engine end so they can operate in all positions without getting strained or kinked so allow for additional length to do this.
Edit: If you've ever had to BUY a tiller to convert an engine back you'll appreciate this point - DO NOT chuck the tiller away in case later you want to sell the engine. Keep it safe!
Helm steering is possible on every engine - that's the easy bit. Again a fitting connects to the handle on the front of the engine. The steering is then passed through a hole in the side of the motor well and clamped in the appropriate position and the inner connected to the engine.
The appropriate position means that you adjust so that with the engine dead ahead the inner cable is at the centre of it's travel.
Many engines can have the outer cable screwed directly to the engine tilt bar which essentially looks like a chunk of gas barrel threaded at both ends. The engine tilts on this tube which is the hinge pin between engine and transom clamp. The inner part of the steering is passed completely through this tube, and is attached to a cranked rod that connects to the steering handle, while the outer part of the cable having a swivel nut on it is screwed to the tube.
This puts all the stresses on the engine and not the outboard well side which may well not be of sufficiently thick layup to take it.
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
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