| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Rawmusic |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 15:48:23
Ok so after several weeks of faff and 2 broken outboards my Norman 20 has made it to the winter resting ground of Chester, now the work starts.
1 there seems to be a leak from one of the side windows, I assume there as one of the fabric backs for the seats seems to get a small dirty wet patch, and advice on finding / sealing it, is it just a case of silicone or similar around the rubber window seals?
2 currently no tunnel light or horn are fitted, what's the best way of attaching them to the roof without adding too many more potentially leaky holes?
3 is it worth adding a bilge pump?
4 any advice at all on electrics, currently there's none onboard at all so I'm kind of starting from scratch, I understand electricity just anything you folks have kicked yourself for thinking about afterwards? The current plan is horn, tunnel and nav lights, bilge pump, some interior led lights, small inverter for maybe 1 or 2 sockets and a couple of 12v sockets for phone charging etc. Maybe a car radio if I can work out where to put one.
I have searched the forum ere and looked on the dawn craft one as well, just looking for anything obvious I may have missed,
Cheers folks.
Phil
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| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| apache |
Posted - 18 Dec 2011 : 22:31:33
Thanks Trev, phone number is recorded. |
| trevork |
Posted - 15 Dec 2011 : 17:11:29
Once you have the phone number Bob, will you let me know and I can remove it. Not good to leave phone numbers really on forums even though our is fairly secure.
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| apache |
Posted - 15 Dec 2011 : 13:32:24
Thanks Pete, will call after Christmas and before if its' cancelled :) |
| Wayfoot |
Posted - 15 Dec 2011 : 12:59:39
Bob
Your welcome to visit anytime. My boat is still out of the water indoors and will remain so until the spring
Pete |
| apache |
Posted - 13 Dec 2011 : 16:34:18
Best of luck Rawmusic, I am having to do the same job.
Wayfoot, i'm interested in having a look see at your window set-up. I am on a 20 and what you have done seems a good thought. I'm in Kendal, not so far from Leyland, perhaps once this silly season is over I can impose and come and have a look at what you've done.
thanks Bob |
| lord john |
Posted - 13 Dec 2011 : 00:49:11
Im not an expert (as many here already know) but have a look at e bay for led lights.I re wired my norman using led lights and even had the interior lights on a dimmer, all 12v.they use less electric to.
if a hammer wont fix it,it must be electrical. |
| Rawmusic |
Posted - 12 Dec 2011 : 19:54:25
Cheers folks, that's given me a few things to think about, look at. I don't think any of the windows on my 20 open at the moment well apart from the ones in the canopy that seem to want to keep flapping out, need to fix them.
Ballast wise I shall opt for the no ballast route then as it seems steering is fine.
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| Wayfoot |
Posted - 12 Dec 2011 : 19:13:10
On the subject of the windows i am 3/4 of the way through renovating my 20. I spent quite some time trying to find suitable seals from Seals Direct but without joy. It all depends on the thickness of the glass. In my case it was 6mm therefore by the time you allow for the thickness of the seals you can't get the glass in. I tried various samples from Seals Direct but eventually decided on using a butyle based sealant. Half fill the frame channel where the fixed pane will sit. Dont forget the vertical section that connect top & bottom of the frame.Then place the glass back into position and allow 2-3 days to set.Fit the felt for the sliding glass and complete the build.
Its very fiddly and messy with the sealant but with patience it will work.
Alternativly, Eagle windows in Burnly will do it for you...quite costly though.
I live in Leyland so if i can be of further help please let me know |
| Knighty |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 22:18:47
On the stereo front if your 20 is same layout as mine which i think is original i fitted it in the cockpit as thats where we are most of the time. 2nd speaker is opposite side of the door so the gubbins behind the stereo is hidden in the cupboard.
Picture is with the face of the stereo removed.
 |
| carpetbloke |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 20:41:43
There is a marine sealant called Sikaflex which is really good for using when attaching deck fittings.
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| df |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 17:57:05
I'm with them two! if you can live without 240 volts do so, car radios are great especially if it has a card slot or usb port as radio reception is always iffy when you are at the lowest point of the landscape (where the water is).
Avoid silicon, you can't open a window that has been siliconed.
Ballast, as Adi says learn to steer it, wind will always be a problem, if yachts with big keels have to allow for leeway a norman has no chance however much balast you use.
Get yourself a modern 4 stroke outboard with electric start and good charging rate and you'll be fine.
Power wise think about if you want a fridge or eberspacher and run some chunky cables to the position you would want them, have batteries close to outboard for best charging.
NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community.
Visit leomagill.co.uk |
| adi-n-chez |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 17:11:47
quote:
Originally posted by Rawmusic
Ok so I get no silicone, that's why I asked.
The bilge it seems to have a couple of pints a week getting into the front, not sure if it's leaky canopy or what, at the moment I just empty it every week or so manually.
Oh another thing, should I have ballast in a 20? There's none in there at the moment but it seems ok apart from in this weeks wind.
Ballast !!!!
My Favorite topic !!
If its ok then its ok !
Dont become one of the many nose down 20 owners who added ballast cos they couldnt originally steer the boat - only to find after adding it was better (When really they could just steer better)
The Wheeldon family put many hrs into the design why spoil it !
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
| Rawmusic |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 16:33:03
Ok so I get no silicone, that's why I asked.
The bilge it seems to have a couple of pints a week getting into the front, not sure if it's leaky canopy or what, at the moment I just empty it every week or so manually.
Oh another thing, should I have ballast in a 20? There's none in there at the moment but it seems ok apart from in this weeks wind. |
| Deano |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 16:26:13
Take a look on here about re-bedding deck fittings.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
The tape is available as "caravan mastic tape" on eBay and is cheap as chips.
As a stop gap, dilute some PVA glue with water and dribble it into the gap, it should dry and stop the leak (or spend ££££ buying the same stuff branded as Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure!!)
But NO silicone!!! It can never be totally removed, you will never be able to seal over it.
Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse.
Freeman 30 "Silver Gem"
See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/ |
| adi-n-chez |
Posted - 11 Dec 2011 : 16:18:28
quote:
Originally posted by Rawmusic
Ok so after several weeks of faff and 2 broken outboards my Norman 20 has made it to the winter resting ground of Chester, now the work starts.
1 there seems to be a leak from one of the side windows, I assume there as one of the fabric backs for the seats seems to get a small dirty wet patch, and advice on finding / sealing it, is it just a case of silicone or similar around the rubber window seals?
NO NO NO to Silicon !!! Probably best to remove the window & replace the rubber (www.sealsdirect.co.uk should help you out)
2 currently no tunnel light or horn are fitted, what's the best way of attaching them to the roof without adding too many more potentially leaky holes?
Normally fitted with Self Tapping screws - Horns / Lights usually come with a rubber mounting / seal , a drop of mastic on the screws will stop water penetrating the roof.
3 is it worth adding a bilge pump?
If the boats dry then maybe not its a personal preference - We keep one aboard as we had a leak thru a old transducer that needed pumping out every few months - with that fixed & a new canopy our boat is dry. A bilge pump will be of use if you do hit something & damage the hull & will obviously help keep water out till you reach a lift out point (Only seen this once in the last 8yrs!)
4 any advice at all on electrics, currently there's none onboard at all so I'm kind of starting from scratch, I understand electricity just anything you folks have kicked yourself for thinking about afterwards? The current plan is horn, tunnel and nav lights, bilge pump, some interior led lights, small inverter for maybe 1 or 2 sockets and a couple of 12v sockets for phone charging etc. Maybe a car radio if I can work out where to put one.
Check out the BSS guidelines (http://www.boatsafetyscheme.com) to ensure you wire correctly with the guidelines - Nothing worse than having to redo when the man from [s]Delmonte{/s] the BSS says no !
I have searched the forum ere and looked on the dawn craft one as well, just looking for anything obvious I may have missed,
Cheers folks.
Phil
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
