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12 Volt Wiring

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[quote][i]Originally posted by Revolvor[/i]
[br]I am totally replacing all the 12 volt wiring in my 23 � the previous owner did not understand the concept of voltage drop and most of the lighting circuits are wired with speaker wire!

I understand the need for fuses, multi-strand wire etc, and also can calculate appropriate wire thickness for a given current etc, but I have a few questions.

�	I have read that wiring should be single wires, in a conduit, rather than twin core, double insulated. Is this necessary?

�	Some books recommend �marine� cable, which is tinned copper wire, to prevent corrosion. I can understand that in a salt-water environment, but is it necessary on inland waterways?

�	In the �12 Volt bible for boats� by Miner Brotherton (75p off ebay) he advocates crimping wires and then flowing solder into the joint as well.  I always thought that soldered joints are susceptible to failure from vibration, due to the lack of flexibility where the solder ends.

There are 3 x batteries � 1 x car battery, and 2 x leisure batteries, at present wired in parallel. I know it is completely wrong to mix car and leisure batteries because of their different characteristics, so I plan to install a split charger, so the car battery is only for the outboard, and also install the 2 x Solar Panels I purchased from Chris for the leisure batteries.

Any comments would be welcome.

Thanks,

John

Roads?  Where we're going we don't need roads!
[/quote]

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T O P I C R E V I E W
Revolvor	Posted - 21 Aug 2011 : 09:50:47 I am totally replacing all the 12 volt wiring in my 23 � the previous owner did not understand the concept of voltage drop and most of the lighting circuits are wired with speaker wire! I understand the need for fuses, multi-strand wire etc, and also can calculate appropriate wire thickness for a given current etc, but I have a few questions. � I have read that wiring should be single wires, in a conduit, rather than twin core, double insulated. Is this necessary? � Some books recommend �marine� cable, which is tinned copper wire, to prevent corrosion. I can understand that in a salt-water environment, but is it necessary on inland waterways? � In the �12 Volt bible for boats� by Miner Brotherton (75p off ebay) he advocates crimping wires and then flowing solder into the joint as well. I always thought that soldered joints are susceptible to failure from vibration, due to the lack of flexibility where the solder ends. There are 3 x batteries � 1 x car battery, and 2 x leisure batteries, at present wired in parallel. I know it is completely wrong to mix car and leisure batteries because of their different characteristics, so I plan to install a split charger, so the car battery is only for the outboard, and also install the 2 x Solar Panels I purchased from Chris for the leisure batteries. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks, John Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads!
5 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
df	Posted - 10 Oct 2011 : 17:07:53 I've been using them for years, very handy. NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community. Visit leomagill.co.uk
Revolvor	Posted - 10 Oct 2011 : 08:26:42 I'm still planning what I want to do with the wiring on my 23, but a colleague recommended this company to me - http://www.vehicleproducts.co.uk/ You can order on line but there is a link on their website to download a pdf or request a printed catalogue. It is a great source of useful wiring-related things. Cheers, John Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads!
Revolvor	Posted - 25 Aug 2011 : 13:07:51 Thanks for the advice Guys - I'll let you know how I get on. John. Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads!
Deano	Posted - 21 Aug 2011 : 10:58:19 � I have read that wiring should be single wires, in a conduit, rather than twin core, double insulated. Is this necessary? No, BSS requires either, twin core red and black in a second insulator is fine - just label what is what. � Some books recommend �marine� cable, which is tinned copper wire, to prevent corrosion. I can understand that in a salt-water environment, but is it necessary on inland waterways? An unnecessary expense. The cable you are installing will last at least 30+ years. � In the �12 Volt bible for boats� by Miner Brotherton (75p off ebay) he advocates crimping wires and then flowing solder into the joint as well. I always thought that soldered joints are susceptible to failure from vibration, due to the lack of flexibility where the solder ends. Crimp only is fine. Make sure you use good tooling and crimps. The heat shrink ones are good for damp areas if you can afford them. There are 3 x batteries � 1 x car battery, and 2 x leisure batteries, at present wired in parallel. I know it is completely wrong to mix car and leisure batteries because of their different characteristics, so I plan to install a split charger, so the car battery is only for the outboard, and also install the 2 x Solar Panels I purchased from Chris for the leisure batteries. Split charge diodes are only any good if you have a battery sensed alternator. 1-2-both switches are OK if you remember to switch them. Voltage sensed relays are the way forward. Dean Dean - Boating on the Great Ouse. Freeman 30 "Silver Gem" See the photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/54758027@N00/
df	Posted - 21 Aug 2011 : 10:24:11 Marine cable is an expensive overkill for inland boats, I havn't used it and I do the salty stuff too, 2 core cable is fine as it is 2 seperate wires in it's own conduit, don't use twin & earth though as single core conductors are not allowed under bss (prone to cracking). NBAS--The communal colostomy bag of the boating community. Visit leomagill.co.uk

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