| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Revolvor |
Posted - 20 May 2011 : 22:54:24
I am in the process of purchasing a Norman 23 for use on the Upper Thames. It at present has a seemingly unreliable 30hp Yamaha 2-stroke Outboard which I would like to replace. I am tempted by a Honda 4-stroke, but am unsure about the necessary rating. Will a 10hp be sufficient, or would it be better to go for a 15hp? Does anyone have experience of new Honda Outboards?
Also, I believe I will need a Long-Shaft version - is that correct? |
| 13 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| adi-n-chez |
Posted - 02 Jun 2011 : 19:38:53
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!
No Ballast No Ballast No Ballast !!!! 
Please , if its your first boat - Keep trying & it will all come to you (We all Zig zag when new!)
Most cruisers are a handful in the wind - Have a few trips out before you turn her into a gravel barge !
Adi
Sewer Tubes ? I'd rather have a D**ncr*ft (Only Kidding) |
| carpetbloke |
Posted - 01 Jun 2011 : 19:53:58
My Norman 23 has a water tank in the bow and no ballast is needed in addition to this.
To be honest a 100 litre water tank fills the bow quite adequately.
If you can`t manage to fix the steering you may need to replace with a new steering kit as a lot of them are now obsolete.
Cables are cheap enough and I always carry a spare gear and throttle, I wouldn`t bother changing it till it snaps, as long as you have a spare you can change them quickly. |
| trevork |
Posted - 01 Jun 2011 : 10:20:53
Nobody can tell you when there is enough there John. Its trial and error until it feels right or as right as it is going to get! |
| Revolvor |
Posted - 01 Jun 2011 : 09:50:14
Well I took all the advice given, and it was related to gear/throttle linkages and idle settings. Following a successful trip out in the boat, I am now the proud owner of a Norman 23, moored at Radcot. Lots to do of course. The throttle cable still needs replacing, and the steering has some play. The ball-joint bush at the engine end seems to have lost all its rubber, and there is 90° free movement at the wheel! Any ideas where I could get a replacement bush? Also the previous owner removed a lot of ballast from the bow - water tanks and batteries, so what with the play in the steering, and no ballast its quite a handful in any wind. From reading previous posts, I plan to put about 200kg of gravel bags in the bow - will that be enough?
Cheers, John |
| yorkiestan |
Posted - 22 May 2011 : 13:09:26
If you don't ask the questions you won't get the answers.I'm sure everyone on here will help if they can.So ask away
http://www.yorkiestan.webs.com |
| Revolvor |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 22:46:46
Yorkiestan - thanks for advice about 20HP vs 15HP prices. I have found a dealer selling a 20HP for only £45 more than a 15HP (Promotional price)
Cliveshep - thanks for confirmation about Long Shaft Engine.
So far, as a newcomer to the forum, I am asking lots of questions, so thanks for everyone's help.
Cheers, John |
| cliveshep |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 22:29:46
All Normans from the 18 up are longshaft
The cost of boating is insignificant compared to costs of a young wife and two teenage kids! |
| Revolvor |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 21:44:05
Ricky,
Thanks for your comments. The engine idles fairly well at low revs and will rev high too. I too also suspect the throttle cable. At the engine end there appears to be a "dog-leg" where the inner exits the outer - i.e. they are not concentric and cable end is wrapped with electrical tape. I have repeatedly pointed it out to the owner, but to me it is symptomatic of "bodging" and I wonder what else is wrong. I repeat the owner's worry about "having the anchor to hand" if the engine was reliable. I am negotiating to have the boat without the engine, and then at least I can install Engine/fuel lines/ control cables etc myself and know that they are to a good standard. Maybe I will end up spending more than I need to, but will at least have peace of mind.
Anyone able to comment on whether I need a "Long Shaft" Outboard?
Cheers, John |
| Ricky |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 19:57:24
OK I understand that engine fail paranoia...I had it once too! Some people can bVgger up there own wrist watch winders tho... let alone an OB. Without seeing it is very hard to diagnose, but if as you say it does run until the drive is engaged, could be the cable setup from remote levers to engine. The prob could likely be the engine end of the cables, and its best to get it running with the gear cable off, and manually select the gear on the OB lever and see what happens, this rules in or out the cables.
Does it rev high and strong tho, without gear selection of course? If so that rules more out doesnt it?
Im getting deja vu as recently made similar comments on another post, but..is the prop fouled? ie bit o rope or weeds around the prop preventing movement? Do you see the prop turning at all at any revs? Any oil leaks on lower leg? Any rainbow colored shimmer on the water around the leg indicates a poss fuel/oil leak! Any gear oil IN the lower leg?
If it idles well, does it idle well at low revs, mid range, high revs? that may rule out a carb adjustment but a good clean anyway solves lots of things from happening - possibly.
So, its a runner but its just not going anywhere? I give that a lot of hope of salvage/service but need more info to help more Im afraid. Got a manual?
Cheers Rick
|
| Revolvor |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 19:30:14
Rick,
Maybe I'm being paranoid! I put down a deposit on the boat a month ago, but despite 4 or 5 visits to it with the present owner, he has been unable to get the engine running and let me take it out. I think he made the mistake of not trying it first, after the winter. It had a fixed fuel tank that had to be repaired and then an engine mechanic advised against a fixed tank for a 2-stroke as the oil can settle out - obvious really. With a loose tank, a new spark-plug and O-ring on filter bowl, engine idles reasonably well, but stops when drive is engaged. It could just be idle adjustment, but I was suspicious that the owner insisted on always having the anchor to hand "In case the engine fails" despite insisting it was 100% reliable. I want an engine that I can rely on, that provides stress-free boating. |
| yorkiestan |
Posted - 21 May 2011 : 13:22:51
check the price.When I bought my Honda 20hp it wasnt a lot dearer than the 15hp,but they might have had an offer on at the time.The 20hp's ideal.
http://www.yorkiestan.webs.com |
| Ricky |
Posted - 20 May 2011 : 23:22:56
Hi, what is "seemingly unreliable 30hp Yamaha 2-stroke Outboard"?
Its a good size and make, whats going on?
Cheers Rick |
| Revolvor |
Posted - 20 May 2011 : 23:01:48
Having posted this, I looked further down the page and saw a very similar question, with good answers, so think probably a 15hp would be best. I'd still be interested on any feedback about Honda Outboards though.
Thanks |
